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2004 RCSB 4x4 - The Mail Truck
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<blockquote data-quote="INW-Iron-Steel" data-source="post: 21296" data-attributes="member: 11733"><p>Next, we start getting into the mods! As I owned it longer and the miles racked up, there were some general wear items that needed addressing. But first, I will say I LOVE factory upgrades. I like to replace worn out parts with better parts when able. One of the best upgrades you can do to a GMT800 (in my opinion) is to upgrade the fronts brakes to GMT900 parts. GM, being as lazy as they are, used the same spindle/knuckle mounting on both platforms. What that means for the average guy: When buying parts for a brake job, tell the parts counter guy you drive a GMT900. I think I am running 2008-ish Tahoe front brakes. As long as you get the calipers with mounting brackets, the matched pads, and the bigger rotors, it will all literally bolt right on.</p><p></p><p>*Pay attention here if you are doing this mod, I don't want you to be upset with me later on.*</p><p></p><p>If you are running 16 inch wheels, forget about this mod until you are willing to run 17s. The rotors are 1" larger in diameter, which pushed the caliper further out (why you need the caliper mounting bracket as well). Also, GM used quite a few different caliper/pad combos in the same model year on these things. So be diligent when matching parts. You can find the caliper part number right on the caliper itself, and most brake pad manufacturers will tell you what pads to run with which caliper. Here are some photos with the 17s on the truck. (Some of you may notice these look the same as the wheels that are now on the 93 Burb... because they are the same wheels, just recycled on that build. I think they're on the 4th or 5th set of tires now. If Level 8 made these in an 18, I would buy them in a heartbeat).</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]2012[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]2013[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The photo above was originally taken to depict the issues with trying to run 17s on drop spindles that explicitly say "for use with 18 inch wheels only"... Ball joint nut grounded down and wheel weights placed accordingly. I always had to specify to tire techs not to use the stick on wheel weights, but to use the tap on weights on the inside lip of the wheel. It was fun to rotate the tires and find out they didn't listen, punt off the weights on the way back to the tire shop, and have them redo their work properly... So much time wasted.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="INW-Iron-Steel, post: 21296, member: 11733"] Next, we start getting into the mods! As I owned it longer and the miles racked up, there were some general wear items that needed addressing. But first, I will say I LOVE factory upgrades. I like to replace worn out parts with better parts when able. One of the best upgrades you can do to a GMT800 (in my opinion) is to upgrade the fronts brakes to GMT900 parts. GM, being as lazy as they are, used the same spindle/knuckle mounting on both platforms. What that means for the average guy: When buying parts for a brake job, tell the parts counter guy you drive a GMT900. I think I am running 2008-ish Tahoe front brakes. As long as you get the calipers with mounting brackets, the matched pads, and the bigger rotors, it will all literally bolt right on. *Pay attention here if you are doing this mod, I don't want you to be upset with me later on.* If you are running 16 inch wheels, forget about this mod until you are willing to run 17s. The rotors are 1" larger in diameter, which pushed the caliper further out (why you need the caliper mounting bracket as well). Also, GM used quite a few different caliper/pad combos in the same model year on these things. So be diligent when matching parts. You can find the caliper part number right on the caliper itself, and most brake pad manufacturers will tell you what pads to run with which caliper. Here are some photos with the 17s on the truck. (Some of you may notice these look the same as the wheels that are now on the 93 Burb... because they are the same wheels, just recycled on that build. I think they're on the 4th or 5th set of tires now. If Level 8 made these in an 18, I would buy them in a heartbeat). [ATTACH alt="IMG_20200122_140051084.jpg"]2012[/ATTACH] [ATTACH alt="Snapchat-1391228842.jpg"]2013[/ATTACH] The photo above was originally taken to depict the issues with trying to run 17s on drop spindles that explicitly say "for use with 18 inch wheels only"... Ball joint nut grounded down and wheel weights placed accordingly. I always had to specify to tire techs not to use the stick on wheel weights, but to use the tap on weights on the inside lip of the wheel. It was fun to rotate the tires and find out they didn't listen, punt off the weights on the way back to the tire shop, and have them redo their work properly... So much time wasted. [/QUOTE]
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