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2006 Silverado SS Intimidator resurrection
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<blockquote data-quote="someotherguy" data-source="post: 20041" data-attributes="member: 6178"><p>12-18-2018 Discovered my Intimidator has a really bad upper ball joint; the boot tore and the joint went to hell. Lots of slack in it. The rest of the suspension is in good shape, just failure of this joint because the boot. Ordered a pair of Moog Problem Solver K6540 from Amazon, ended up a few bucks less than buying just ONE locally.</p><p></p><p>The Enchanted Garden brand or whatever Chinese thing the O'Reilly's had in their loaner tool program was just enough to get it done. Problem is nobody cared enough to ever grease the thing before using it so the ball bearing inside the screw insert was egg-shaped and pitted and the thing barely spun although I greased the crap out of it and the screw. I fought that tool for all it was worth to get these joints done.</p><p></p><p>Since the only joint showing any issue was the passenger upper because the boot tore wide open, I wasn't planning on doing any other parts. Testing showed the driver side joints had zero slack. I ended up replacing the driver side upper anyway though because its boot was torn enough that it was oozing grease all around, and I had the parts and tool in hand, so they both got done.</p><p></p><p>Didn't want to do full disassembly since other parts were fine, so I used my floor jack to support the LCA, left a gap, and tapped the spindle around the upper ball joint area letting the force of the torsion bar pop it loose. (Left the nut threaded on a bit so it couldn't go crazy.) Strap holding the spindle/caliper in place so it couldn't fall slack and put stress on the brake hose.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1115[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Using the ratchet I just barely got it to crack the joint a little amount. Gave me room to squirt some PB Blaster in there and let it soak a bit, then I switched to a breaker bar instead.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1116[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Moog Problem Solver K6540 going in, lubed the splines and hole in the UCA to help, be sure to align the dot facing the wheel.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1118[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Installed, reassembled, greased...</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1119[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Driver side was a real pain in the ass, mostly I blame the tool for not allowing the cap to spin on its bearing. Had to make a cheater pipe out of a floor jack handle, but got it done. Another tip, using a ratchet strap under the LCA, hooked to the UCA to pull it down, kept it from moving while reefing on the press tool. Made it go better for sure.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1120[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Richard</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="someotherguy, post: 20041, member: 6178"] 12-18-2018 Discovered my Intimidator has a really bad upper ball joint; the boot tore and the joint went to hell. Lots of slack in it. The rest of the suspension is in good shape, just failure of this joint because the boot. Ordered a pair of Moog Problem Solver K6540 from Amazon, ended up a few bucks less than buying just ONE locally. The Enchanted Garden brand or whatever Chinese thing the O'Reilly's had in their loaner tool program was just enough to get it done. Problem is nobody cared enough to ever grease the thing before using it so the ball bearing inside the screw insert was egg-shaped and pitted and the thing barely spun although I greased the crap out of it and the screw. I fought that tool for all it was worth to get these joints done. Since the only joint showing any issue was the passenger upper because the boot tore wide open, I wasn't planning on doing any other parts. Testing showed the driver side joints had zero slack. I ended up replacing the driver side upper anyway though because its boot was torn enough that it was oozing grease all around, and I had the parts and tool in hand, so they both got done. Didn't want to do full disassembly since other parts were fine, so I used my floor jack to support the LCA, left a gap, and tapped the spindle around the upper ball joint area letting the force of the torsion bar pop it loose. (Left the nut threaded on a bit so it couldn't go crazy.) Strap holding the spindle/caliper in place so it couldn't fall slack and put stress on the brake hose. [ATTACH type="full" alt="06SS_102s.jpg"]1115[/ATTACH] Using the ratchet I just barely got it to crack the joint a little amount. Gave me room to squirt some PB Blaster in there and let it soak a bit, then I switched to a breaker bar instead. [ATTACH type="full" alt="06SS_103s.jpg"]1116[/ATTACH] Moog Problem Solver K6540 going in, lubed the splines and hole in the UCA to help, be sure to align the dot facing the wheel. [ATTACH type="full" alt="06SS_106s.jpg"]1118[/ATTACH] Installed, reassembled, greased... [ATTACH type="full" alt="06SS_107s.jpg"]1119[/ATTACH] Driver side was a real pain in the ass, mostly I blame the tool for not allowing the cap to spin on its bearing. Had to make a cheater pipe out of a floor jack handle, but got it done. Another tip, using a ratchet strap under the LCA, hooked to the UCA to pull it down, kept it from moving while reefing on the press tool. Made it go better for sure. [ATTACH type="full" alt="06SS_110s.jpg"]1120[/ATTACH] Richard [/QUOTE]
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