Amazon Window Switch fail, cleaned OEM (Now with pics!)

Tonimus

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My OEM window switch was no longer sending the driver's window down automatically. It hasn't worked since before I got it, so I didn't even know it was a thing until the passenger one went all the way down with just a bump.

Got an Amazon replacement and installed it. Sad trombone noise. The window went down as it should, but the door courtesy light stopped working and the door lock actuator would fail to cycle properly like 20% of the time.

I decided to tear my OEM switch apart. If you go slow and mind what you're doing, it comes apart pretty well. I cleaned the PCB contacts and the switch contact pads with isopropyl. Reassembled and reinstalled back in the door.

Everything is back to working as it should! If you have electrical rather than mechanical failure of the switch, I'd suggest cleaning it first.

EDIT: See below for pictures.
 
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ORVietVet

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Were the switch bodies just held together with flex bodies with little tabs settled in to slots on opposing switch body?
 

Tonimus

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Were the switch bodies just held together with flex bodies with little tabs settled in to slots on opposing switch body?
It is actually one switch body. It is held together with the clips on the other side. They are clearly visible. There's no need to mess with the mechanical switches at the top, so take it apart upside down. It came apart easily. IIRC, the PCB was held in with little clips as well, but the same spudger tool I used (flathead screwdriver) popped those just fine as well. I was surprised that it did not break anything and it went so well. If there's any interest, I'll grab the Amazon one I still have floating around and I'll open it up for pics.
 

ORVietVet

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It is actually one switch body. It is held together with the clips on the other side. They are clearly visible. There's no need to mess with the mechanical switches at the top, so take it apart upside down. It came apart easily. IIRC, the PCB was held in with little clips as well, but the same spudger tool I used (flathead screwdriver) popped those just fine as well. I was surprised that it did not break anything and it went so well. If there's any interest, I'll grab the Amazon one I still have floating around and I'll open it up for pics.
Do it.
 

Tonimus

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8 snap hooks around the perimeter hold the housing together.


After you remove the bottom cover, you will see the first PCB.


It is simply supported by pegs and has an easy dupont style interboard connection. It just lifts out.


The inner PCB is the "difficult" one to remove. It has 8 clips around the perimeter. Just keep at it and it'll come out. It may or may not come out with the membrane contacts. Mine did not. The membrane simply lifts out.


You need to clean the PCB contacts (gold) and the membrane contacts (black). I used IPA.



To reassemble, just go in reverse. I lay the membrane in, then drop in the inner PCB. I go all the way around the PCB and make sure all 8 snaps are locked in. Then I drop the smaller PCB on top, making sure the pegs are lined up so the interboard connector goes in correctly.

When you put the back cover on, be mindful of all the pins on the smaller PCB. If it doesn't go on easily, check for bent pins.
 

ORVietVet

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I would bet that a lot of the master switch failures are caused by door open and raining out. I deal with that here in the PNW a lot. My door is open for as short a time as possible when it is raining here.
 

Tonimus

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I would bet that a lot of the master switch failures are caused by door open and raining out. I deal with that here in the PNW a lot. My door is open for as short a time as possible when it is raining here.
Makes sense. Not so much out here in the desert southwest, I'd think. But I would definitely try cracking it open and taking a look. It wouldn't surprise me if there was obvious corrosion. Might be lucky enough for it to be in a place that can be cleaned.
 

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