Reply to thread

Message: <blockquote data-quote="ORVietVet" data-source="post: 29079" data-attributes="member: 9438">You can unbolt the bracket that holds the linkage to the side and pop the end of the linkage off and move away for clearance. On the other side, unbolt and remove the shield(s), again for clearance. Drain the fluid because the less fluid in there means less spillage and a cleaner work area.I gain exhaust clearance, one of two ways. I have never unbolted the Y-pipe. I either unbolt at the transmission mount and jack up the transmission for clearance. Perfect time to replace the transmission mount as well. Or, jack the Sub up on each side and set stands under the frame and then lower the Sub down to put weight on the stands. Then you take ratchet straps, one on each side, and wrap around the exhaust pipe and attach at the bottom of stands and pull the exhaust down and flex the exhaust mounts enough for clearance. it only needs about 1" to 2". Then you will have the room at back of pan for filter clearance.I am assuming you have a 4L60E transmission. If the pan is flat on the bottom, then you have the shallow pan and that takes an ACD-TF289 filter and gasket kit. If it has a recess in the pan, not counting where the drain plug is, then you have the deep pan and the ACD-TF337 is the correct filter and gasket kit.Use Valvoline full synthetic Max-Life transmission fluid for the refill. Should be red colored plastic jugs. Get 2 of the 1 gallon jugs. You will need more than just 1 gallon.If the existing filter plug in seal is still tight on the new filter snout, then use it and will not need the new seal replacement. If is sloppy and will not hold the new filter up, then replace the seal. They are a PITA to do but watch a video or two and deal with it.Make sure to clean all sealing surfaces and make dry. Where the bolts go thru the pan, on the transmission side, use a small ball peen hammer and tap the holes down flat/flush. Typically the holes are pulled a little and are not completely flat. I typically use a very light film of grey Permatex sealer on both sides of the gasket before reinstall. I mean, very light but very even, on both sides. Make sure pan and transmission surfaces are DRY.Do a good even snug up on the bolts. back and forth, one side and then the other. Do not snug them up in a circle. Then a nice even tension on all 16 bolts. Reattach the shields and linkage components. Once you are completely done under the truck, put it all down on the flat ground. DO NOT FORGET TO REINSTALL THE DRAIN PLUG!Add 1 gallon of fluid. Restart engine and add as needed, SLOWLY. Shift thru gears and let idle for around 15 minutes during all this. Then roadtest and recheck fluid level and add as needed. recheck for leaks and recheck fluid level over the next 2-3 days when fluid is hot, not warm, HOT.</blockquote>