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'99 - '06 GM Truck Modifications
Engine & Performance
Gear ratio
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<blockquote data-quote="Marky Dissod" data-source="post: 28567" data-attributes="member: 13218"><p>So far, yea, ok, not surprised at all, even if it's a 2WD. 33" tall tires made your truck (NOT your engine) weaker, and 3.73 ain't much to begin with.</p><p>4.10 would improve the tow rating for a very good reason. (GM did not offer 4.30 for this truck because they offer stronger trucks.)</p><p>Long story short here: 4.30 or 4.56, depending on your NORMAL, PREVALENT usage cases, not your occasional ones.</p><p>My guess'd be 4.30 because I don't know your usage case, just statistics. If you use your truck unusually, it could be 4.56 would be better for you.</p><p></p><p>Don't know anything of the Stage 2 BTR truck cam, but willing to bet more money than I should, that the horsepower peak has moved to a higher RpM than GM OE?</p><p>If I remember correctly, the GM OE horsepower peak occurs @ ~ 5200RpM. Where / when does your horsepower peak now?</p><p></p><p>If this Stage 2 BTR truck cam has moved the horsepower peak past 5200 RpM, then odds are you made your engine more powerful, but NOT any stronger.</p><p>In fact it's very likely you made the engine WEAKER under 2500RpM. This seems to go right over far too many people's heads:</p><p>Most engines live UNDER 2500RpM for most of their lives, even when driven by leadfoots, even when they play or work too hard, even if they're undersized.</p><p>Have not yet found a cam that SHOWS that it makes MORE POWER UNDER 2500RpM on a DYNO GRAPH, even if they can categorically prove it other ways.</p><p></p><p>For the record, I do NOT recommend a looser converter. It will make your truck less drivable, less sensitive to smaller throttle inputs.</p><p>You may find it acceptable, but you WILL notice, and it'll cost you MpG whenever the torque converter is not locked, especially in 1st & 2nd, but even in 3rd & 4th.</p><p>Plus you may need to upgrade your ATF cooler one way or another (although this is ALWAYS a good idea regardless).</p><p>If you're willing to find a converter that is NOT looser yet has a higher stall RpM than GM OE, it'll be worth the considerable cost, just maybe not to you.</p><p></p><p>There are only two mods I can almost always recommend to nearly everyone:</p><p>*better axle gears - 4.30 (or 4.56, depending on how you usually use it)</p><p>*pcm tuning - done thoroughly and properly, it improves longevity and durability, not just the fun stuff cowards are afraid to improve - glad you got this done</p><p>The 3rd recommendation, I don't make as often, but I'll make it to you:</p><p>*bigger engine, or artificial aspiration - or both, if you've money to burn?</p><p></p><p>Given what you have now, you'd be PLEASANTLY SURPRISED, if not VERY HAPPY with a 6.0L & 4.10 (or 4.30 or 4.56).</p><p>What would you say to someone with a 4.3L Caprice (regardless of what gear was GM OE)? You better say 5.7L & 3.73 ...</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Marky Dissod, post: 28567, member: 13218"] So far, yea, ok, not surprised at all, even if it's a 2WD. 33" tall tires made your truck (NOT your engine) weaker, and 3.73 ain't much to begin with. 4.10 would improve the tow rating for a very good reason. (GM did not offer 4.30 for this truck because they offer stronger trucks.) Long story short here: 4.30 or 4.56, depending on your NORMAL, PREVALENT usage cases, not your occasional ones. My guess'd be 4.30 because I don't know your usage case, just statistics. If you use your truck unusually, it could be 4.56 would be better for you. Don't know anything of the Stage 2 BTR truck cam, but willing to bet more money than I should, that the horsepower peak has moved to a higher RpM than GM OE? If I remember correctly, the GM OE horsepower peak occurs @ ~ 5200RpM. Where / when does your horsepower peak now? If this Stage 2 BTR truck cam has moved the horsepower peak past 5200 RpM, then odds are you made your engine more powerful, but NOT any stronger. In fact it's very likely you made the engine WEAKER under 2500RpM. This seems to go right over far too many people's heads: Most engines live UNDER 2500RpM for most of their lives, even when driven by leadfoots, even when they play or work too hard, even if they're undersized. Have not yet found a cam that SHOWS that it makes MORE POWER UNDER 2500RpM on a DYNO GRAPH, even if they can categorically prove it other ways. For the record, I do NOT recommend a looser converter. It will make your truck less drivable, less sensitive to smaller throttle inputs. You may find it acceptable, but you WILL notice, and it'll cost you MpG whenever the torque converter is not locked, especially in 1st & 2nd, but even in 3rd & 4th. Plus you may need to upgrade your ATF cooler one way or another (although this is ALWAYS a good idea regardless). If you're willing to find a converter that is NOT looser yet has a higher stall RpM than GM OE, it'll be worth the considerable cost, just maybe not to you. There are only two mods I can almost always recommend to nearly everyone: *better axle gears - 4.30 (or 4.56, depending on how you usually use it) *pcm tuning - done thoroughly and properly, it improves longevity and durability, not just the fun stuff cowards are afraid to improve - glad you got this done The 3rd recommendation, I don't make as often, but I'll make it to you: *bigger engine, or artificial aspiration - or both, if you've money to burn? Given what you have now, you'd be PLEASANTLY SURPRISED, if not VERY HAPPY with a 6.0L & 4.10 (or 4.30 or 4.56). What would you say to someone with a 4.3L Caprice (regardless of what gear was GM OE)? You better say 5.7L & 3.73 ... [/QUOTE]
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