Pitman Arm - Does this look right?

[99-800]

I'm planing on replacing most of the front suspension on my 99 4WD truck. The front end is mainly old parts with torn boots and worn out rubber and I need new tires so I figured now it a good time to get it done.

The one thing that is new in the front suspension is the pitman arm, the old owner even mentioned that he had just had that replaced and it does look new but it doesn't look like its fully on the splines:

Is that correct or does the nut need to be tightened more or was the wrong part installed?

 

[Cadillacmak]

Welcome from Alaska. I have had after markets ones sit like that, but you had better check torque just in case!

 

[99-800]

Good to know its not uncommon, is there a good location for torque specs? I'll need it for everything in the front end.

 

[ORVietVet]

184 ft. lbs.

Welcome to the forum, from Oregon.

 

[99-800]

Thanks for the info, I'll have to check if my torque wench even goes that high.

It seems like I'm the further south here in New Mexico.

 

[ORVietVet]

I have literally installed 100's of new pitman arms on numerous vehicles, in my 40+ years in shops. I always tightened with a 1/2" impact and hammered it. I have never torqued one down and never had a problem. There is a lock washer with it. Tighten till you cannot tighten any more with a 12" long 1/2" ratchet. Then you can use a longer cheater bar to add just a little.

 

[99-800]

I have a 1/2 impact so I can manage that. Thanks for the pointers, I'll be order parts so it wouldn't surprise me if I run into a some problems, I'm sure I'll be back.

 

[ORVietVet]

I have a 1/2 impact so I can manage that. Thanks for the pointers, I'll be order parts so it wouldn't surprise me if I run into a some problems, I'm sure I'll be back.

If you are doing major steering and suspension work, there are companies that make assemblies of center link, tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm. Less expensive as an assembly than piece by piece.

 

[99-800]

I'm looking at the MenvoTech kits on RockAuto, they seem like a good value. Is there anything I should watch out for or any other options I should check out?

One thing I see that is that most of the kits say "4 Groove Spline" for the pitman arm but one says "3 Groove Spline" what is the difference and how would I check what I have?

 

[ORVietVet]

I'm looking at the MenvoTech kits on RockAuto, they seem like a good value. Is there anything I should watch out for or any other options I should check out?

One thing I see that is that most of the kits say "4 Groove Spline" for the pitman arm but one says "3 Groove Spline" what is the difference and how would I check what I have?

4 groove or 3 groove mean that the splines on the shaft of the steering gear and the splines of the pitman arm have a fat spline to help determine where to install the pitman arm. When you take the pitman arm off the steering gear you should have the steering wheel centered and tires pointing forward and a fat spline of either new arm lining up with the positioning of the old pitman arm. I would bet that the 4 groove spline will be the correct pitman arm.

"The main difference between a 3 Groove and a 4 Groove pitman arm is the number of Grooves carved on them. Pitman arms are responsible for connecting the steering box to the steering linkage, also known as the drag link, and transmit the motion of the steering box to the linkage.

A pitman arm with fewer Grooves will have a more reactive response than a pitman arm with more Grooves. A 3 Groove pitman arm is ideal for vehicles that require a more sensitive steering response, while a 4 Groove pitman arm is best suited for larger and heavier vehicles as it provides a more stable and smoother steering feedback."

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

I have literally installed 100's of new pitman arms on numerous vehicles, in my 40+ years in shops. I always tightened with a 1/2" impact and hammered it. I have never torqued one down and never had a problem. There is a lock washer with it. Tighten till you cannot tighten any more with a 12" long 1/2" ratchet. Then you can use a longer cheater bar to add just a little.

+1 on what he says. On the last pitman arm I did, I didn't feel like taking the sway bar off. I think I used a massive adjustable wrench with a jack handle on the end for leverage. I've never torqued a pitman arm either. My theory is if it is going to loosen up, it will do it on the way to the shop for an alignment. Maybe pick an extra bumpy road en-route for more confidence.

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

4 groove or 3 groove mean that the splines on the shaft of the steering gear and the splines of the pitman arm have a fat spline to help determine where to install the pitman arm. When you take the pitman arm off the steering gear you should have the steering wheel centered and tires pointing forward and a fat spline of either new arm lining up with the positioning of the old pitman arm. I would bet that the 4 groove spline will be the correct pitman arm.

"The main difference between a 3 Groove and a 4 Groove pitman arm is the number of Grooves carved on them. Pitman arms are responsible for connecting the steering box to the steering linkage, also known as the drag link, and transmit the motion of the steering box to the linkage.

Some images from Google to help visualize what you are talking about. For OP, you can count the splines with the pitman arm still on the truck. Using a sharpie makes it really easy. Good luck!

 

[99-800]

Maybe pick an extra bumpy road en-route for more confidence.

I'm 8 miles off pavement down a ranch road and ~50 miles to get it aligned so I'll have that for sure!

Some images from Google to help visualize what you are talking about. For OP, you can count the splines with the pitman arm still on the truck. Using a sharpie makes it really easy. Good luck!
View attachment 3205View attachment 3206

Thanks for the detail! I'll double check to make sure its a four groove.