New fuel cap

[ORVietVet]

So, I was looking at the fuel fill cap today and it looked old and tattered and beat up. before it got to the point of causing a code, I decided to get a new one. I looked up a Genuine GM one at RA. part number GT330. With the shipping and 5% RA discount, was gonna be about $35. I then punched in the same part number at my local AZ and the initial price was a little more but I get a military 10% discount and it will be $26.09 BUT when I punched in the part number, AZ also told me I needed a housing part #15289921: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7230952&cc=0&pt=1001719&jsn=1708

It is the cup area where the fuel fill tube is and where the little cap tether attaches. AZ was not "suggesting" it, they were saying I needed it. You just gotta look out for yourself.

By the way, I got the pic and link at RA but when I punched in the GM part # at AZ, it was "Not Available".

 

[Cadillacmak]

They were trying to up-sell you a part you didn't need! I am sure it gets some people, so thanks for putting out a warning.

 

[JakeSei]

I’m currently needing a fuel cap myself. Truck keeps popping a message “tighten fuel cap”
Everything else checks out so assuming a fuel cap should do the trick

 

[ORVietVet]

They get old enough and even though you may click them a few times when tightening, they loosen all by themselves.

 

[4silverado]

Or you get the dreaded P0446. Mine had flashed the tighten fuel cap before but now that stupid code is there. I’ve cleared the code multiple times and it comes right back. Going to try a tethered cap first.

 

[ORVietVet]

I did the cap before any codes because was very old. The P0446 could be a purge valve.

 

[4silverado]

Yeah I know. Fuel cap is less than $25. Tether has already broken on mine and I fixed it with a yellow butt splice (yeah I know, I’m a redneck). LMC Truck has a purge kit around $75. There are a few other things on that purge valve that it could be that costs no $, only time.

 

[ORVietVet]

Typically the problems are the fuel cap, purge valve or vent solenoid. Plus, if left long enough with a problem, the charcoal gets in the lines. At another forum I am at, I have seen guys/girls spend so much time trying to fix one piece at a time and end up with replacing the whole system. Thankfully, there is a member there, and is a mod too, that understands the system completely and his input is great.

 

[someotherguy]

My now-departed '06 Intimidator SS has a persistent P0455. First thing I did, like most, is replace the cap. Then the vent solenoid/filter following the TSB with the updated parts and relocation of the filter to prevent dirt intrusion. Then the purge solenoid.

I figure the previous owner must have overfilled the tank frequently and damaged the canister. Never got around to replacing it as Texas lets you pass emissions test with 1 monitor "not ready" so every year when inspection time came around, I'd fill the tank, clear the codes, then next day on cold start it'll ready the O2 heater monitor, a little driving readies the others, a short trip gets them all in line except of course the evap system. Then to the inspection.. before it gets down to 75% tank and runs the evap test, which will set the code again.

Told the buyer this yesterday, full disclosure. He's had lots of GM's including several 800's so he knows the routine.

Richard