Solved Front end binding up when turning 04 yukon xl AWD

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Recently acquired 04 yukon xl full time 4wd with 2 speed transfer case. Heard a clunk about a week ago and ever since then, if I turn the steering wheel more than 1/4 turn something in drivetrain binds up and will stop it from rolling unless you really push on throttle. All 4 wheels want to pull once and will jump like a regular part time 4x4 locked in 4low on asphalt. First shop I took it to thinks it is the transfer case, but they aren't sure. I drained front differential and transfer case, transfer case did have a bit of sparkles in the fluid, but the front differential definitely had more trash, even so it didnt have any big metal chunks. No abs or stability control lights have came on. And if I pull the brake fuse it still binds up so dont think it is stabilitrak. Anyone have any ideas ?
 

ORVietVet

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Welcome to the forum from Oregon. Glad you are here.

I do believe you have answered your own concerns. Do you remember/know when the last time you did the fluid services on the diffs and transfer case? Especially on an AWD truck, it is important. Have you owned a long time and know when did the services or did you buy used and have never done services and did you get maintenance/repairs paperwork when you bought the truck?

When turning, the inner wheel turns different revolution counts than the outside wheel and it all has to be transferred inside the cases and diffs. If you got metal, you got problems.

Again, welcome to the forum. I recommend you go to Introduction and tell us a bit about yourself and truck and post some pics.
 
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Welcome to the forum from Oregon. Glad you are here.

I do believe you have answered your own concerns. Do you remember/know when the last time you did the fluid services on the diffs and transfer case? Especially on an AWD truck, it is important. Have you owned a long time and know when did the services or did you buy used and have never done services and did you get maintenance/repairs paperwork when you bought the truck?

When turning, the inner wheel turns different revolution counts than the outside wheel and it all has to be transferred inside the cases and diffs. If you got metal, you got problems.

Again, welcome to the forum. I recommend you go to Introduction and tell us a bit about yourself and truck and
 
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Welcome to the forum from Oregon. Glad you are here.

I do believe you have answered your own concerns. Do you remember/know when the last time you did the fluid services on the diffs and transfer case? Especially on an AWD truck, it is important. Have you owned a long time and know when did the services or did you buy used and have never done services and did you get maintenance/repairs paperwork when you bought the truck?

When turning, the inner wheel turns different revolution counts than the outside wheel and it all has to be transferred inside the cases and diffs. If you got metal, you got problems.

Again, welcome to the forum. I recommend you go to Introduction and tell us a bit about yourself and truck and post some pics.
Recently acquired meant I just recently bought it, about 3 weeks ago. I got it from the 2nd owners who had it for roughly 4 years. They put all new brake lines, master cylinder, water pump, and some other stuff about 3 months ago. It drove fine for the first 2 weeks I had it, then the pop noise and ever since it will not roll when the steering is turned more than 1/4 turn. Even used transfer case and front differential isn't cheap, so looking for suggestions on which would be more likely. Yeah the front differential drain plug definitely had more shavings on magnetic drain plug, but the transfer case also has plenty of sparkles in the fluid. Neither of them looked like the fluid was too awful old.
 
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Recently acquired meant I just recently bought it, about 3 weeks ago. I got it from the 2nd owners who had it for roughly 4 years. They put all new brake lines, master cylinder, water pump, and some other stuff about 3 months ago. It drove fine for the first 2 weeks I had it, then the pop noise and ever since it will not roll when the steering is turned more than 1/4 turn. Even used transfer case and front differential isn't cheap, so looking for suggestions on which would be more likely. Yeah the front differential drain plug definitely had more shavings on magnetic drain plug, but the transfer case also has plenty of sparkles in the fluid. Neither of them looked like the fluid was too awful old.
I'll try getting some pics of it to upload after work this evening as well, thanks
 

ORVietVet

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ANY metal is bad unless is the very first drains when you get the initial "sharp edges round off" that is normal. You said whet previous owner did but none of that was fluids change for the transfer case or diffs. You can try a complete drain and refill and see what happens. When drain, use Brake Clean to wash out and let dry for 1-2 hours before refill with fresh fluids. You can bet there is damage in there. Lots of important stuff happens in the AWD transfer cases.

By the way, any repair/maintenance paperwork/info from 1st owner?
 

99Sierra2500

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Recently acquired meant I just recently bought it, about 3 weeks ago. I got it from the 2nd owners who had it for roughly 4 years. They put all new brake lines, master cylinder, water pump, and some other stuff about 3 months ago. It drove fine for the first 2 weeks I had it, then the pop noise and ever since it will not roll when the steering is turned more than 1/4 turn. Even used transfer case and front differential isn't cheap, so looking for suggestions on which would be more likely. Yeah the front differential drain plug definitely had more shavings on magnetic drain plug, but the transfer case also has plenty of sparkles in the fluid. Neither of them looked like the fluid was too awful old.
I don't know, no claim on being an expert. I would take it to another shop for a second opinion, a good mechanic should be able to diagnose it from a test drive, or maybe putting it on a lift. Four wheel drives are more complex, with independent front suspension even more so; to me (not an expert) maybe sounds like the front differential, maybe transfer case, though maybe it could be a hub, cv axle, or even brakes binding. One or two wheels locking up might cause it to transfer more power to the others, unknown.
 
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ANY metal is bad unless is the very first drains when you get the initial "sharp edges round off" that is normal. You said whet previous owner did but none of that was fluids change for the transfer case or diffs. You can try a complete drain and refill and see what happens. When drain, use Brake Clean to wash out and let dry for 1-2 hours before refill with fresh fluids. You can bet there is damage in there. Lots of important stuff happens in the AWD transfer cases.

By the way, any repair/maintenance paperwork/info from 1st owner?
I did try draining and refilling transfer case first, then I done the same with front differential yesterday afternoon. I have only drove it in the yard and gravel driveway since changing front differential fluid. Unfortunately neither of the previous owners left any service records in it. I do know it has all new brake lines from front to rear, new brake master cylinder, new water pump, Battery, alternator, and a few other things a few months before I bought it. I only drove it local for the first few weeks I had it. Then drove it on the interstate for about 2 hour's, once I got back off interstate coming home. Something made a single pop/thud noise from what sounded like the very front. If you get it off in the grass and stomp the gas all 4 tires still spin. It'll drive a straight line just fine as well regardless of how fast you go. But turn the wheel more than 1/4 turn either way and it'll come to a stop. If you turn right, it'll stop sooner though. I did find out the passenger side caliper was partially seized and the brake pad on inside of rotor was completely gone, but it never did squeal, throw off heat, or pull to that side and still stopped like it had new brake pads. I have replaced that caliper and both pads since though. Once it does bind up and come to a stop if you're going forward, you can keep steering wheel turned the same way and reverse about the distance of 1 full rotation of the tires before it stops again. And vice versa. Tie rods have a little slack but not much. Wheel bearings, lower and upper ball joints are all tight. Cv axles are fine as well.
 

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The very last thing you said is what I want to focus on at this time. How do you know the cv axles are ok? Just because no boots are torn? I would be doing a tear down and check the hubs/bearings......disconnect the tie rods and make sure the knuckle moves freely left and right with no binding. Remove the axles and make sure all flexing is smooth and easy. If all of that is just fine then I still say, as I stated before, especially with the metal in the fluid you talked about, that the problem(s) lie with the transfer case or front diff. Also, while you are in there, check all mounts to make sure they are solid and not allowing the engine/transmission to cock.
 

stutaeng

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On a 4x4 model (with 4wd engaged) you would hear some binding if driving on dry pavement, which is recommended to be avoided...

I believe you have the NP149 on the AWD, which if of course full-time AWD. Can you lift the truck on 4 wheels (jack stands) and run it, turning the wheels to replicate the symptom? You may even be able to remove the front axles to rule out the transfer case? IDK?
 

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If you do lift and run, make sure you support with jack stands under the axles, as close to the ends as can. Do not support at frame and let it all hang. Make sure you are on level and best to use 6 ton stands with wide bases. Try to have the stands extended as least as possible with tires off ground no more than 3"-4". Less extension of jack stand arms the better for safety.
 
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AuroraGirl

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On a 4x4 model (with 4wd engaged) you would hear some binding if driving on dry pavement, which is recommended to be avoided...

I believe you have the NP149 on the AWD, which if of course full-time AWD. Can you lift the truck on 4 wheels (jack stands) and run it, turning the wheels to replicate the symptom? You may even be able to remove the front axles to rule out the transfer case? IDK?
The awd has an internal differential to manage the front and rear propshafta, the axle is open diff to handle the driver to passenger side power transfer, and the cv axles handle the speeds and angles at the wheel (with turning of the wheel)

The awd case has some power to the front under all situations and therefore has some perceptible bind up at wheel locks compared to part time case.

Any more of that points toward mechanical damage in the case , cv axles worn and binding , or brakes are applying with turning from the wrong hoses or routing.

I had a brake hose that the bracket was in the wrong spot (auto store brand) and had to pry it open to shift it.
 

AuroraGirl

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On a 4x4 model (with 4wd engaged) you would hear some binding if driving on dry pavement, which is recommended to be avoided...

I believe you have the NP149 on the AWD, which if of course full-time AWD. Can you lift the truck on 4 wheels (jack stands) and run it, turning the wheels to replicate the symptom? You may even be able to remove the front axles to rule out the transfer case? IDK?
Also the proper transfer case fluid is CRITICAL to the awd case.
 

AuroraGirl

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Recently acquired 04 yukon xl full time 4wd with 2 speed transfer case. Heard a clunk about a week ago and ever since then, if I turn the steering wheel more than 1/4 turn something in drivetrain binds up and will stop it from rolling unless you really push on throttle. All 4 wheels want to pull once and will jump like a regular part time 4x4 locked in 4low on asphalt. First shop I took it to thinks it is the transfer case, but they aren't sure. I drained front differential and transfer case, transfer case did have a bit of sparkles in the fluid, but the front differential definitely had more trash, even so it didnt have any big metal chunks. No abs or stability control lights have came on. And if I pull the brake fuse it still binds up so dont think it is stabilitrak. Anyone have any ideas ?
Two speed IS NOT awd full time.

i need the rpo or the actual transfer case you have to help you diagnose this. There is only one AWD case and it was primarily in the Silverado SS and Cadillac Escalades but it was available in Yukons I think. You don’t get 2 speeds with a awd case. But you do have a encoder motor on a 2 speed which would significantly be easier to service if that were the issue
 
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Two speed IS NOT awd full time.

i need the rpo or the actual transfer case you have to help you diagnose this. There is only one AWD case and it was primarily in the Silverado SS and Cadillac Escalades but it was available in Yukons I think. You don’t get 2 speeds with a awd case. But you do have a encoder motor on a 2 speed which would significantly be easier to service if that were the issue
Its Borg Warner 4482. It is a full time 4wd with 2 speed transfer case. Got it replaced and fixed now, knock on wood.
 

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