Fuel Pump Replacement

[INW-Iron-Steel]

My 04 Sierra currently has 265,000 miles on it. I am working on a set of custom leaf springs to replace the worn out, saggy springs in my truck. As the weather warms up I am going to be swapping them in. But, that brings me to my dilemma. To pull the front bolt on the driver side spring I must drop the fuel tank. Should I replace the fuel pump when I drop the tank as preventative maintenance? There are no signs of failure, but I figure with this many miles the time is near. I have a fuel pump for it that I bought a while back. That summer the electric pumps died in all my other cars, so I figured this one was next. That was almost 2 years ago now. So, if I am dropping the tank to do the springs, should I just replace the pump too? Or, should I just keep running the OE pump until it dies? I always assume OE parts are superior, especially with the way aftermarket parts have been going the last few years.

 

[ORVietVet]

IMO, it depends on if the replacement pump is an OE pump. If it is OE, I would replace it and clean out the tank while you are at it. If not OE replacement, stick with what you got BUT be prepared to MAYBE have a problem with the old OE pump after disconnecting and reconnecting. For some reason thing/components just don't like it when you do that. Please be sure to have the tank as empty as possible when dropping the tank.

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

IMO, it depends on if the replacement pump is an OE pump. If it is OE, I would replace it and clean out the tank while you are at it. If not OE replacement, stick with what you got BUT be prepared to MAYBE have a problem with the old OE pump after disconnecting and reconnecting. For some reason thing/components just don't like it when you do that.

I really appreciate the input!

The pump is a 'Hella' brand. So not OE. At the time, the GM genuine for my RCSB was not available/discontinued. I did some research and they seem to be a pretty well respected German company and OE supplier. I am really wishy-washy on this one, that's why I am asking for others thoughts. I would usually just do the work while I have the tank down, but this OE pump has been a workhorse. I thought it was dead about 8 years ago when it started need 2 cycles of the key to prime and start the truck without prolonged cranking (that healed itself). And then I thought it was dead again about 4 years ago when the truck randomly died towing my boat up a hill on the way to the lake. That hasn't happened again, but I attribute that to low fuel and heat.

To give context to the situation, we are going to be in the midwest for about 6 more months, and then we will be heading back to WA (about 1500 miles). With this in mind, I am half tempted to throw the new pump in and keep the truck close to home-base for a while just in case it fails. On the other hand, I would hate for it to abruptly fail after 6 months in the middle of MT somewhere. I guess that could happen with the 265K mile pump though too.

Please be sure to have the tank as empty as possible when dropping the tank.

Oh yeah...I learned that the hard way on the 93 suburban when the better half killed the OE pump. It died at the gas pump on 4th of July, after filling up the 42 gallon tank... Now she knows why I fill everything up when it hits 1/4 tank, or sooner.

 

[ORVietVet]

I looked and there is plenty of pump assembly choices in the GM or Delphi brands depending on wheelbase. I looked and saw in your Introduction there was no engine size listed and so I guessed and looked for the 5.3 engine.

Might want to set up your account Signature and list your truck info.

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

I looked and there is plenty of pump assembly choices in the GM or Delphi brands depending on wheelbase. I looked and saw in your Introduction there was no engine size listed and so I guessed and looked for the 5.3 engine.

Might want to set up your account Signature and list your truck info.

Thanks for the reminder, I just copied over my signature now!

4.8, but if I am remembering correctly, the fuel pump was dictated by bed length (unless flex-fuel, that was a different pump) and not 4.8 vs 5.3. It sounds like you're suggesting to just scrap the idea of the aftermarket pump I have now and get a new OE one? I'm honestly leaning that way too. I may just let the difficulty dictate what I do on this one.

 

[4silverado]

If you’re dropping the tank, you might want to take a look at the brake lines between the tank and and the frame. They have a tendency to rot out in that spot. I had to have one replaced but instead of dropping the tank, they went over the tank with the replacement brake lines.

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

If you’re dropping the tank, you might want to take a look at the brake lines between the tank and and the frame. They have a tendency to rot out in that spot. I had to have one replaced but instead of dropping the tank, they went over the tank with the replacement brake lines.

Thanks for that suggestion! I'll take a look at them when I drop the tank. This one is pretty rust free so fingers crossed... you never know though.

 

[ORVietVet]

Yes I am suggesting that about the fuel pump. Pay attention to not only the bed length but the RPO codes related to evap system. If your 8th digit of the VIN is a T then is a gas engine and if is a Z, it is a flex fuel system. Might want to address the tank vent valve and maybe even the charcoal cannister while in there and blow out the "disconnected at both ends" lines. Purge valve at top of engine is easy enough to get to at any time. I am a big advocate of doing all kinds of things, while I am "in the area".

That is why I would put my 168k miles 2005 Z71 Tahoe up against any GMT800 Tahoe on the street. I have all of the paperwork to back up my claims. The 2004 Silverado will also go thru the same "once over".

 

[DateNight]

Leave the pump along. When that time comes just lift one side of the bed and R&R the pump. It can be done in less than an hour.

As for the leaf spring bolt. Buy a new bolt and cut the old one. Slide the new one in from the opposite way. No need to drop the tank.

 

[stutaeng]

The fuel pumps were all the same in the GMT800 trucks (at least for the non-flex fuel ones). V6, 4.8, 5.3, 6.0...return vs returnless were obviously different though.

I've got 273k on my 99 Silverado. Original pump. I would also vote: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Especially with the hit/miss track patterns we are seeing with some of the new replacements.

If you had a scope with an induction type of probe you could graph the waveform of the electrical signal and see the commutator "health." Way above my pay rate... lol

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

I've got 273k on my 99 Silverado. Original pump. I would also vote: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Especially with the hit/miss track patterns we are seeing with some of the new replacements.

If you had a scope with an induction type of probe you could graph the waveform of the electrical signal and see the commutator "health." Way above my pay rate... lol

I appreciate the opinion, i am waffling on this one bad...

Way above my pay rate too, I'm a shade tree type of guy, no special certifications for working on cars! That's why I ask the experts (you guys)!

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

As for the leaf spring bolt. Buy a new bolt and cut the old one. Slide the new one in from the opposite way. No need to drop the tank.

I have thought about this, but from what I have read GM installed it that way so the bolt wouldn't poke the tank in the instance of an accident. I have no preference either way, but I would hate for this to be one of those things I look back on later and regret... with crispy skin or something...

Any input on that?

 

[DateNight]

I wouldn’t worry about that bolt

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

Alright, I think I am changing course on this one. I was digging through my boxes of useless car spares today and came across an old airbag setup. I think it was off a gmt900 my old man had back in the day, but I have no idea how I ended up with them. I will have to call him to confirm. I swore that bin was full of random chains, but it was just the airbag setup (compressor and all). I like the balanced ride height of my 04, and I don't really want to give it a bunch of rake to compensate. The springs I was planning on customizing were a 4 pack + overload from a 2500 that would have definitely lifted the rear compared to the 2+overload springs that are currently on there. Now I am thinking I will just add the airbags and leave a little air in the bags unloaded to prevent the axle from bottoming out over big bumps (like it currently does).

So, no removing the tank, and no removing the springs this way. Thanks for all the advice fellas! I will start another thread when I tackle the rear-suspension in this pig.