Work out of my garage/driveway

ORVietVet

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Landlord's 2018 Suburban LT needed front pads and rotors. Pretty bad pulsation. Took apart and found both inner pads were wearing at an angle. Took a long breaker bar to break loose the bolts that bolt the caliper brackets to the hub. All fixed and is now smooth. Pics are of the new rotors after I cleaned the coating off with brake clean, caliper slide pins cleaned and lubed, new pad hardware...

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ORVietVet

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I road tested the Suburban and deliver back, 2 doors down. We got to talking. His wife's 2022 Toyota Highlander Hybrid 2.5 engine, had a "Maintenance Required" light on at the dash. Checked paperwork. Almost 11k miles and 13 months since last oil change. I bust on down to AZ and get oil and filter and new drain plug/gasket. When she had the last oil change at the dealer, they told her she needed engine air filter and cabin air filter. I looked at them before I went to AZ. Easy to get to and both looked real good and could see sunlight thru them and no debris on top of the cabin air filter. Resetting the maintenance required light is a royal PITA. Showed her how to hook up if even need to jump start.

So, my landlord and his wife are happy happy happy. Sorry, no pics.
 

Cadillacmak

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Landlord's 2018 Suburban LT needed front pads and rotors. Pretty bad pulsation. Took apart and found both inner pads were wearing at an angle. Took a long breaker bar to break loose the bolts that bolt the caliper brackets to the hub. All fixed and is now smooth. Pics are of the new rotors after I cleaned the coating off with brake clean, caliper slide pins cleaned and lubed, new pad hardware...
Looks like a nice job.
 

ORVietVet

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Worked on a 2014 Ford E350 Super Duty XLT Flex Fuel today. In for an oil change, squeaky serp belt, wind noise at the driver's door and radio work but no display.

I did some research and found numerous posts about solder joints need solder on back of display but that is not for me and I told them.

I did the oil change and the drain plug had been overtightened and came out slow and found stretched threads and had a slight oil leak at the drain plug. I had already bought a new drain plug and it went in with no problems. Old and new drain plug pics.



The belt squeak noise was a dried out belt and slight noise at the idler. I replaced the belt, tensioner and the idler. No more noise.

The wind noise is caused by the upper hinge mount area, of the body, being cracked and pulling away and door sag. Someone at one time or another had loosened the attaching bolts at the other side of the hinge, where it attaches at the door. I tightened up the bolts and now you have to slam the door to close. When you push door by hand, up to the latch/striker, it has a springy effect that springs it back. He is aware the door will have to come off, new metal at hinge backing on the body side, reassemble and align.

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ORVietVet

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Well, started the new position at my shop owner friend's place. Showed me how to build estimates on their system, transfer the parts and labor and fluids and fees and printed out and he got to call 2 customers that had been waiting for a week for the estimates. He was able to knock out some serious work while I did the admin stuff. Going in at noon tomorrow and likely be there till 6 and then see when I come in next but he said that likely within 2 weeks, 80% of my time will be at home.
 

ORVietVet

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Second day at the shop. He is throwing me in to the deep end. All good. He has given me estimates that are large and need to get sold. I am looking up all labors using All Data and monitoring the overlapping labor. If I am unsure, I just use All Data and look up all the repair procedures and where it may or may not overlap and adjust accordingly. Then looking up all parts and fluids needed. Load all the parts, fluids and labor and hazmat fees and any miscellaneous fees and then print the estimate for him to read and adjust as he likes. He has actually adopted a phrase that I like to use. I always told him that words are free and help pay for the work and justify the charges.

Looks like my hours when I am at the shop is gonna be noon till caught up and then time at home at a later date.
 
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Cadillacmak

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Second day at the shop. He is throwing me in to the deep end. All good. He has given me estimates that are large and need to get sold. I am looking up all labors using All Data and monitoring the overlapping labor. If I am unsure, I just use All Data and look up all the repair procedures and where it may or may not overlap and adjust accordingly. Then looking up all parts and fluids needed. Load all the parts, fluids and labor and hazmat fees and any miscellaneous fees and then print the estimate for him to read and adjust as he likes. He has actually adopted a phrase that I like to use. I always told him that words are free and help pay for the work and justify the charges.

Looks like my hours when I am at the shop is gonna be noon till caught up and then time at home at a later date.
How are you liking the new job?
 

ORVietVet

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I am going to get me one of those Power Probe PPDRAW tools. Quite the time saver when it comes to just verifying there is a current/right now, draw.

You attach the tool at the data link connector. Turn it on. Then, after you have rolled down the window and locked the vehicle, like you would when leaving parked for the night, disconnect the negative cable at battery or even the positive too-AFTER YOU PRESS THE SMART OUTPUT BUTTON, close the hood, and then watch the ma draw scale on screen and look for modules to go to sleep and the ma draw should drop. May take around 30 minutes for that to happen. The internal battery, in the tool, has taken place of your vehicle battery and now you watch. There are a couple videos at you tube that explains all the options, better than I can.
 

ORVietVet

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The PPDRAW tool is on it's way. This weekend, in Junction City, Oregon, there is an event called the Function in Junction-Google it, and the shop that I have been at since Tuesday is about 1 mile south of the main drag where the cars will flow. Turns out that the building our shop is in, is also a storage place for some of the restored and custom vehicles. They stage out of there, about 8 of them, and then come back after a few circuits with the city out to see them and also people from the surrounding area. I started yesterday at 10 a.m. and got out of the shop and headed home at 10 p.m. Long day but got a lot accomplished in the shop. I have the software programs down about 90% to 95%. Not sure yet but my normal hours may be noon to about 5 or 6. But will not be 5 days a week and never on a weekend, unless there is an emergency. Will soon be working at home as well.
 

ORVietVet

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Did an oil change on a 2019 CRV with 1.5 turbo. All was going good till came time to change the PCV valve. Puches in a bore in the valve cover at the back passenger side. As you can see in the pics, the center pulled out of the housing and left the housing in the valve cover. Gonna have to remove valve cover and push out from inside. Rescheduled for later in the month. As you can see the cabin air filter was filthy.

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ORVietVet

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40+ years in the shops. 10 as a tech and the rest as a service advisor/writer/manager. I am retired. I do this work to stay busy and some extra cash. I like doing it. I pick and choose what I work on. This extra work will be easy.
 

ORVietVet

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I believe I have a way for getting that broken piece of the pcv valve out, without removing the valve cover.

#1. The underside of that valve cover, where the tube is for the pcv valve, is not open on the end. It is enclosed. My thoughts of valve cover removal to push out from the inside is a no go but if need be, I could remove the valve cover and have it on a bench to have easier access. Or replace the valve cover assembly, if is a worse case scenario.

#2. There is plenty of room between the passenger side back end of the valve cover and the firewall. I believe there is enough inner diameter to the grey housing of the pcv valve to reach in with a pick with a 90 degree or curled hook and grab at the holes you see in the pics. Then pull it out and I can use a bigger tool to use for leverage at the handle end of the pick. The only thing seized up is the o-rings.

#3. I have a set of left hand thread easy outs that are big enough to slide inside that grey broken piece and see if I can twist it out,

#4. I cannot use penetrating fluid and spray in there because I do not want it mixing with the new oil.
 

ORVietVet

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The long Snap On pick shaped like a fish hook on the end, was able to be pushed inside the stuck outer housing and 2 good constant pulls got the housing out. Cleaned the bore and made sure there were no other pieces inside there. Lubed the new PCV valve o-rings and installed and threaded down the hold down bolt. Saved the lady the cost of the new valve cover and the approx 3 hours labor. She was very happy. Then she surprised me with a homemade loaf of sourdough/wheat bread. Turns out she likes to bake. Hope the following pics tell the story.

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ORVietVet

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Cadillacmak

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