Work out of my garage/driveway

ORVietVet · Feb 2, 2025

Parts have been ordered at RA and should all be here this week, for a 2005 Tahoe LS that I am going to be doing the driver's door hinge pins and door lock actuator, blower motor and resistor assembly. This work is for the widow of aan American Legion friend of mine that passed last year.
I have not done the hinge pins on a GMT800 before but I figure I better learn because I own a 2005 Tahoe Z71. I have done some research and reached out at Tahoe/Yukon Forum and got some info.

Really doesn't look that hard to do, just a few steps for prep by pulling the wiring harnesses from inside at the end of dash and pulling thru the door jam hole with the umbilical cord, unbolting the 3 10mm bolts and lifting door off. I am set for that with my floor jack and a rubber pinch weld pad. I will have a grinder for the pin heads and the special tool for pushing the old pins out after the grinding.

I have done my blower motor and resistor before, so no biggee there.

There will be pics and a write up.

ORVietVet · Feb 2, 2025

The other set of parts I have coming are the complete valve covers, pcv line from intake to d/d valve cover port, oil fill tube and cap for the front of p/s valve cover, for a 2010 F150 2wd 5.4 engine. This job should be pretty straight forward. Done some research and talked to my shop owner friend. May end up putting an oil catch can on it but will talk to the owner. The catch can kits I found look to be very very easy to install. There will be pics and write up. These pics are what started the valve cover talk, as well as they were both leaking oil.

ORVietVet · Feb 3, 2025

All hard parts got here today for the 2010 F150 5.4 and for the 2005 Tahoe LS.

I also needed the correct size rubber pinch weld pad for the floor jack arm cup to set in. The rubber pad came today. It is gonna be a perfect fit and set right down in the steel cup.

Cadillacmak · Feb 3, 2025

ORVietVet said:
The rubber pad came today. It is gonna be a perfect fit and set right down in the steel cup.

I want one of those, do you have a link you could share?

ORVietVet · Feb 3, 2025

Cadillacmak said:
I want one of those, do you have a link you could share?

Amazon.com: Suewort Upgraded Pinch Weld Jack Pad, Two Depths X-Grooves Floor Jack, Easily Fit Different Cars, Thicker Sturdy and Grippy Rubber Pad to Protect You and Your Car, 3.9 x 3.9 x 1.8 in : Industrial & Scientific

Buy Suewort Upgraded Pinch Weld Jack Pad, Two Depths X-Grooves Floor Jack, Easily Fit Different Cars, Thicker Sturdy and Grippy Rubber Pad to Protect You and Your Car, 3.9 x 3.9 x 1.8 in: Accessories - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

When you look at the measurements that are supplied with the Amazon Prime ad for it, it says 3.9" outer diameter. Inside the metal cup I measured 3 3/4". I ordered anyway and figured I could grind or cut it down for a better fit. No need though. It was a perfect drop in fit.

It is also cut on the backside, to allow for it to fit on a small pedestal, like what comes in the carrying case floor jacks.

Cadillacmak · Feb 3, 2025

ORVietVet said:
Amazon.com: Suewort Upgraded Pinch Weld Jack Pad, Two Depths X-Grooves Floor Jack, Easily Fit Different Cars, Thicker Sturdy and Grippy Rubber Pad to Protect You and Your Car, 3.9 x 3.9 x 1.8 in : Industrial & Scientific

Buy Suewort Upgraded Pinch Weld Jack Pad, Two Depths X-Grooves Floor Jack, Easily Fit Different Cars, Thicker Sturdy and Grippy Rubber Pad to Protect You and Your Car, 3.9 x 3.9 x 1.8 in: Accessories - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

When you look at the measurements that are supplied with the Amazon Prime ad for it, it says 3.9" outer diameter. Inside the metal cup I measured 3 3/4". I ordered anyway and figured I could grind or cut it down for a better fit. No need though. It was a perfect drop in fit.

It is also cut on the backside, to allow for it to fit on a small pedestal, like what comes in the carrying case floor jacks.

I just ordered one, thanks for the link!

ORVietVet · Feb 3, 2025

Cadillacmak said:
I just ordered one, thanks for the link!

My jack that has that cup is a 3 ton jack. I have 2 of them, made by different manufacturers and they have the same size cup. If your floor jack is a 3 ton, it is likely the same. I bet you measured though.

Cadillacmak · Feb 4, 2025

ORVietVet said:
My jack that has that cup is a 3 ton jack. I have 2 of them, made by different manufacturers and they have the same size cup. If your floor jack is a 3 ton, it is likely the same. I bet you measured though.

No I didn't, but I will most likely make a separate cup for it so I can swap them out. My wife tells everyone we live in the projects, because there is always 10+ projects going on.

ORVietVet · Feb 4, 2025

If one of the cups measures 3.75", at bottom of cup, this piece will fit in it. The cup I have in pic measures 3.75" across the flat bottom, before it curls up on sides, and this set right down in it, even though the ad says it is 3.9" across, at the bottom.

ORVietVet · Feb 4, 2025

Before I moved in with my girl, I told her about my toolbox and I like to work on vehicles. She was worried what the landlord would say. I work on his whole family's vehicles. 7 vehicles. My "projects" are always what we just bought and I make them how I feel comfortable in them and trust them.

ORVietVet · Feb 5, 2025

Neighbor, 1 block over, has a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 with the 5.7 gas engine. Calls me today and he is with his daughter at her gym class and wanted to know if I could listen at a rattle/tapping noise he had on his engine. He said he would drive by after the daughter's class. All good. Noise at front of engine and would change with engine speed. Pinpointed, with my mechanic's stethoscope to the top idler pulley for the serpentine belt and a chatter coming from the tensioner. I reached in with a long reach 3/8" drive ratchet and while was at idle, after restarting, I applied more tension. The idler came apart. Removed both. Idler was easily the noise source and the tensioner was chirping when spin pulley by hand and had side to side play. I sent him to AZ after I looked up the parts and verified they were in stock. I called and they set him up for my military discount when he went and bought parts. He came back and 10 minutes later, restart and smooth as silk and no abnormal noises. I charged him a stipend and sent him on his way. When I took the old idler off, there was just 3 ball bearing left in the races. He does a lot of outside work for my landlord.

someotherguy · Feb 6, 2025

I diagnosed a bad (NEW) tensioner that way, years ago, when I had my shop/salvage yard. Customer came to me looking for an R-4 A/C compressor. I strongly resisted selling him a used compressor because I couldn't guarantee it; even "new" (rebuilts) are a crapshoot with those. He said he was really down on his money and just trying to get his A/C fixed; says his existing compressor sounded like it was going to grenade. I relented, and pulled a compressor off a parts truck that still had working A/C so we could at least confirm it was working, and not noisy.

He goes home and installs it, then brings me the truck because it's still making a horrendous noise up front. Sounded exactly like a bad A/C compressor. He saw me test and remove the one I gave him, so he didn't suspect the compressor, but was at a loss for why it sounded bad. I observed under the hood while the A/C clutch engaged/disengaged. When engaged, the compressor seemingly was making the classic "I'm gonna splode" noise, but his brand new tensioner had also started oscillating, jumping around like crazy.

I *carefully* wedged a tool (IIRC an old broom handle, maybe a breaker bar? been years) against the arm on the tensioner and all the noise went away. Pulled his new Dayco-style tensioner off, swapped it for a serviceable used OEM Gates. Everything quiet up front now. Told him go get your money back on this junk tensioner; it had you replace your compressor for nothing. I didn't feel the need to point out the obvious, that he failed to diagnose it properly before going to the effort. At least he had minimal investment in the used compressor, and I gave him the tensioner and my less-than-1hr. labor for free. I can recognize when someone is truly down on their luck, and those are parts I usually wouldn't sell used, anyway.

Richard

ORVietVet · Feb 6, 2025

someotherguy said:
I diagnosed a bad (NEW) tensioner that way, years ago, when I had my shop/salvage yard. Customer came to me looking for an R-4 A/C compressor. I strongly resisted selling him a used compressor because I couldn't guarantee it; even "new" (rebuilts) are a crapshoot with those. He said he was really down on his money and just trying to get his A/C fixed; says his existing compressor sounded like it was going to grenade. I relented, and pulled a compressor off a parts truck that still had working A/C so we could at least confirm it was working, and not noisy.

He goes home and installs it, then brings me the truck because it's still making a horrendous noise up front. Sounded exactly like a bad A/C compressor. He saw me test and remove the one I gave him, so he didn't suspect the compressor, but was at a loss for why it sounded bad. I observed under the hood while the A/C clutch engaged/disengaged. When engaged, the compressor seemingly was making the classic "I'm gonna splode" noise, but his brand new tensioner had also started oscillating, jumping around like crazy.

I *carefully* wedged a tool (IIRC an old broom handle, maybe a breaker bar? been years) against the arm on the tensioner and all the noise went away. Pulled his new Dayco-style tensioner off, swapped it for a serviceable used OEM Gates. Everything quiet up front now. Told him go get your money back on this junk tensioner; it had you replace your compressor for nothing. I didn't feel the need to point out the obvious, that he failed to diagnose it properly before going to the effort. At least he had minimal investment in the used compressor, and I gave him the tensioner and my less-than-1hr. labor for free. I can recognize when someone is truly down on their luck, and those are parts I usually wouldn't sell used, anyway.

Richard

Yea, my time is $100 an hour. I still stay at $80 an hour for the neighbors. I was out in the rain diagnosing, removal, research on computer for parts availability and arranging my military discount, reinstall and verify repair and putting all tools away=1 hour=$80. I charged him 1/2 that at $40. He held the light for me and did as I told him during all this. My light had good perches available, for the right angle to set the light, but were all either aluminum or crap in the way and could not attach the light magnet. He stood on top of the p/s tire and held the light. Plus, I know he has a daughter and a wife and works hard for his money. He was saying to replace the belt while loose. The belt looked great and I said "no need". There was one other idler down low that was the same design and size but it spun smooth with no play.

Cadillacmak · Feb 7, 2025

ORVietVet said:
All hard parts got here today for the 2010 F150 5.4 and for the 2005 Tahoe LS.

I also needed the correct size rubber pinch weld pad for the floor jack arm cup to set in. The rubber pad came today. It is gonna be a perfect fit and set right down in the steel cup.

Mine just came in, I will go play with it in a bit.

ORVietVet · Feb 7, 2025

Tackled the valve covers replacements this morning. Went just fine but the upper intake air resonator had been broken before and Permatex'd together. I ordered a new part and will be here Tuesday and a simple replacement. It will take longer to cut the broken spring clamp off than anything else. I have seen shoddy workmanship from a couple of the shops she has receipts for. You can see in the pics the crud build up on the ignition coil boots. Everything else went as planned.

ORVietVet · Feb 7, 2025

ORVietVet · Feb 7, 2025

ORVietVet · Feb 8, 2025

The final special tool I need for the widow of an AL friend of mine that passed, 2005 Tahoe driver's door hinge pins work, is here. Now I can pick a sunny day and schedule the work. Gonna be doing a door latch actuator on the same door and a new blower motor and resistor, as well. Gonna be a busy day, in my driveway, when I do that work. I always like to do the harder job first, so that will be the hinge pins. As before, pics and a write up to follow.

ORVietVet · Feb 11, 2025

Received the "intake air resonator" today for the 2010 F150 job. Had to cut the old spring clamp off because in the previous pics you can see the broken part and to try and dig it off of there would likely cause the plastic snorkel to break on snout of the reusable section that fits on top of the throttle body. Installed everything and then wiped down the area to look better.