MikeP1969
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah! I would be all over the mossberg!! Now that is an exciting delivery!!!
Work out of my garage/driveway
- Thread starter ORVietVet
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My dentist's assistant has a 2009 Silverado K2500HD with a fuel gauge problem. It can run down to between 1/4 and empty, I told her to think of 1/4 tank as empty, and she fills it and then it will read zero intermittently and no CEL comes on but can intermittently get the low fuel warning at the same time. Then a day or two later it will be correct after she starts it. I checked for codes today and found one history code, P0463. That is for: Fuel Level Sensor "A" Circuit High. Research told me that when this code sets it may or may not get a CEL. She said sometimes, there is a CEL when the problem happens, but then goes off by itself. I retrieved the code and cleared it. She is gonna do an oil change with me soon and I will be checking the steering and suspension for her too. Now the fuel gauge problem. I want to hook up either my new scanner or my Foxwell GM only scanner and both have Live data and Bi-Directional capabilities. If I tell the fuel gauge to read ZERO and then read 1/2 tank or full tank and it responds as it should, that tells me the problem is in the very common fuel level sensor. If it does not react as it should then the stepper motor is suspect. The hardest part may be checking all wiring between the two to make sure there is no wiring problem at either end. If needs the tank to come out and change out the pump and sender, looks like a b*i*t*c*h to do and some places say unbolt the bed and lift it and go in under it. Unless I can move the bed completely back enough to stay away from fuel pump area, I am not gonna try to go in under a bed just lifted straight up for access. Dangerous. I will do the testing and report my findings.
I fired a Mossberg 590 Shockwave 12 gauge at the range about 2 years ago. Friend of mine had one. Makes a great bedroom defense firearm. It is already loaded and in next to where I sleep.
Cadillacmak
Well-Known Member
Yes, shotguns are better for that! Then you don't accidentally shoot a hole in garage with a 762x39 and damage a bunch of stuff while chasing off dogs in your yard that are trying to attack your dogs. Hypothetically!
someotherguy
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a good test plan. My hunch FWIW is you'll find it's the sender, since it set the code. A bad stepper motor causing the gauge to read low will trigger the low fuel warning on the DIC even with a full tank, I've experienced that myself in the '06 - and the remaining range display continued to be correct.
Richard
Yea, I definitely want to get the new scanner attached to this truck and for backup, my Foxwell NT710 GM will verify what the new Autel scanner says. I agree that the sender likely set the code. Likely and almost certainly not the stepper motor setting a code.
My recent oil pressure gauge fluctuation problem on the 2004 Silverado never set a code for the bad stepper motor. Thankfully there is no rust around here, so if I do decide to do the fuel pump in my driveway, I will not have to fight that. The fuel tank drop may be more than my 72 year old body would want to tackle on my back. Plus, it is the sender and at least they can drive it. May farm it out to my shop owner friend. His shop is in the same town that the dentist office is in. Further testing will narrow it down.
Well, I went to Charm.li to look at the labor times for dropping the fuel tank on the 2009 Silverado K2500HD. I then found a TSB #05-00-89-078C that effected GM vehicles 2013 and older, about fuel sender problems caused by corrosion from sulfur contaminates in fuel. It states that senders were effected by that giving erratic fuel gauge readings. Supposed to use a GM fuel treatment that is added to the fuel tank. Basically 1 ounce for every gallon size fuel tank.
I informed my customer and she is going to add the additive as instructed and monitor the gauge and when she brings the truck to me for oil change and steering/suspension inspection, I will do a bi-directional test on her gauge.
More results pending and will report here. Her fuel gauge erratic readings had just started within the last month.
I forgot to say, that according to the TSB, the additive will clean the sender and allow it to work properly.
I informed my customer and she is going to add the additive as instructed and monitor the gauge and when she brings the truck to me for oil change and steering/suspension inspection, I will do a bi-directional test on her gauge.
More results pending and will report here. Her fuel gauge erratic readings had just started within the last month.
I forgot to say, that according to the TSB, the additive will clean the sender and allow it to work properly.
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The 2005 Tahoe LS got dropped off at 3 today and then I took her home and came back and removed the door step sill, the kick panel cover and the side dash fuse cover. Located the ONE connector and harness that plugs in at the fuse box, right behind the cover, and then feeds down behind kick panel cover and then thru the hole where from the outside, the rubber boot/umbilical cord attaches. Disconnected and fed it all the way thru and then plugged back in for the night. I will remove hinge bolts and limiting strap bolt and lift the door straight up and off the hinge pins. Then I will be grinding off the swelled bottoms of the pins, 4 of them, use my special press tool to push the old pins out and then bolt in the new hinge pins and rehang the door and feed the wire harness back in and install the kick panel cover, step sill cover and the fuse box cover.
Be aware, if you tackle this job, it is a base LS vehicle. If you are working on an LS with more options, and LT or a Z71, you could have up to 3 harnesses that feed thru that umbilical cord rubber boot.
Then I will be doing the door lock actuator/latch assembly on the same door. These pics are all I did when I got back from dropping her off and spent about 30 minutes on where I am at now. You should notice the harness connector is plugged back in till in the morning.
Be aware, if you tackle this job, it is a base LS vehicle. If you are working on an LS with more options, and LT or a Z71, you could have up to 3 harnesses that feed thru that umbilical cord rubber boot.
Then I will be doing the door lock actuator/latch assembly on the same door. These pics are all I did when I got back from dropping her off and spent about 30 minutes on where I am at now. You should notice the harness connector is plugged back in till in the morning.
Well today was just fun fun fun. Unbolted the drivers door from the hinges and then, with the help of my neighbor, lifted the door straight up and off the pins. Used my floor jack to lift it, using a special cup that is designed for pinch weld lifting. Cut the bottoms off of the 4 pins and used my special push tool to remove the old pins. Bolted in the new pins and set the door back on and all went well.
Moved on to the door lock actuator and that went pretty smooth except for water coming out of it. See the red water at the pin connector area. Found leaking water at the glass wipe seal. Repositioned that and fixed that.
Then went to the blower and resistor and found one of the attaching screws for the resistor was rusted and when dropped the resistor, found it rusted badly. Blower was dry.
Gonna remove cowling tomorrow and locate source of leak.
Moved on to the door lock actuator and that went pretty smooth except for water coming out of it. See the red water at the pin connector area. Found leaking water at the glass wipe seal. Repositioned that and fixed that.
Then went to the blower and resistor and found one of the attaching screws for the resistor was rusted and when dropped the resistor, found it rusted badly. Blower was dry.
Gonna remove cowling tomorrow and locate source of leak.
someotherguy
Well-Known Member
Curious, which door seal was out of whack that let water get into the connector?
Richard
Richard
The glass wipe seal on the outside, for some reason had a chunk missing at the back, just above the actuator. I was able to grab and stretch back to cover the gap. She knows, because I told her, it needs replaced asap. I am slowly but surely getting repairs and maintenance caught up. She is not good about it and I have to jump her about it.
She did complain about a left front rattle over bumps and I found a loose pitman arm about 8 months ago and replaced. Did not fix it. Has not gotten worse. Gonna look again for source tomorrow. It is not a sway bar link. I checked for that last time. Same noise so likely still not the source but will inspect for sure.
Sorry, I forgot to let you know what my shop owner friend found when he used the new scanner, my MK808S by Autel, to diagnose some running problems on a Honda Pilot. He said that as far as he can tell, it does everything that his Snap On Scanner does, just not as fast. Is not as intuitive as his scanner, either. He said for less than $400 price, it is great but he also paid 10 times more for his scanner. I am sure as I use it and get used to the flow of getting from point A to point B, it will meet my needs just fine, for home driveway work. As a matter of fact, I have a repeat customer that I have done some work on her 2010 F150 with a 5.4 and is 2wd. Says she was hoping some of the work I did would help it get better mileage. She never told me that was a concern of hers and she freely admitted that. No CEL. She only does short trips in town, 95% of the time and gets less than 10 mpg. I have told her to get it on the highway for a 30-45 minute trip at least. She said she did and the mpg went up by 1.5 to 2.0 mpg. I am gonna have her drop it on Friday morning and I am gonna go drive it with the scanner hooked up. I have explained about short trips and cold air density and octane fuel she uses and no will see what happens. I do know that Ford takes an act of God to set a CEL for misfires. But her plugs and ignition coils were done at a Ford dealership on 06/19 at 91,658 miles and she is at close to 113k miles now.
Gonna be a thorough inspection for water leak source above the blower/resistor area. When the wiper arms and cowling cover is removed that exposes a cover that is over a rectangular screened area that feeds ventilation down in to the area above the blower and resistor area. Where that vent mounts, the seal around there deteriorates over time and the cover also breaks down and there is a soft foam seal where it sets on top of the vent hole. There is also another soft foam seal that is exposed, more to the center area, when the cowling is lifted off. At each end of the tunnel under there, where the wiper motor is located, there is a rubber flap that also gets clogged up on the inside and backs up water that should drain out of there. You do not have to remove cowling to access these. It is literally just a rubber flap. Look deep and you can see and reach to them. Pull them back and reach in with a finger and check for debris.
Ok, back at the 2005 Tahoe today. Removed wiper arms and the upper cowl cover. Found the p/s inner most vent hole foam seal was crap. The outer cover, when pried off, seal was crap. The screen cover below it had the spongy foam seal and was wet. You can see the blower motor wheel in pic. Cleaned it all completely. The outer perimeter of the outer vent with the cover, got a good cleaning and sealed with fresh silicone sealant around the whole perimeter. The cover was completely cleaned and sealed and when I pushed it back in place, the extra sealer oozed out and sealed smoothly around the outer perimeter. The inner most vent hole was cleaned and new foam seal installed. The bottom of the cowling cover was completely cleaned so that it would lay against that foam seal. Reinstalled everything. Waited 1 hour for sealer to set up. Pulled the blower resistor. Ran the water hose for 20 minutes and watched and felt for water back at the resistor mount hole. Felt dry and saw no water drips. Almost forgot, did check the ends of the lower rails and there was no blockage. You can see one, in the first pic is torn on the p/s.
On the same Tahoe, it has hydro-boost brakes and when on a rough enough road or over bumps, there is a rattle noise under the dash on d/s and sounds close to the firewall. I checked and is not the lower collar bearing on the steering column and not the attaching shaft at bottom of column. Did find a lot of play at the upper brake pedal pivot. Has a large horizontal bolt with a threaded nut. Cannot seem to see or feel the other side of it to see if the bolt head is there. I was tired and did not spend a bunch of time digging. Also has P/S fluid seepage at back of hydro-boost at the firewall. See pics of seepage and threaded bolt. Bolt is at top of the pic. Anyone ran in to this before and know anything about tightening the bolt? Is there a bolt head or is it captured? Thanks in advance.
Then I had a customer from previous work, call me out of the blue and asked if I could install his new battery. He said other shops were putting him off for at least a week. It is a 2015 Ford Escape SLE AWD with the 1.6 turbo. I found a coolant leak that 3 other shops could not find, about 1.5 years ago. Done a couple oil changes and Reinstalled a rubbed off fuel tank cover for him as well.
Took 30 minutes to install battery. Remove wiper arms, remove upper and lower cowlings and dig out of the box it is in, in front of driver close to the firewall. Then I reset his oil change reminder light and asked why? He said he had the oil changed and realized that he slipped up. I saw a new sticker and he did not call me for the oil change and the shop did not do the reminder light reset.
I told him $40 for the battery install and he paid me $50 instead and begged forgiveness for not calling me about the oil change.
Took 30 minutes to install battery. Remove wiper arms, remove upper and lower cowlings and dig out of the box it is in, in front of driver close to the firewall. Then I reset his oil change reminder light and asked why? He said he had the oil changed and realized that he slipped up. I saw a new sticker and he did not call me for the oil change and the shop did not do the reminder light reset.
I told him $40 for the battery install and he paid me $50 instead and begged forgiveness for not calling me about the oil change.
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