Cadillacmak
Well-Known Member
Well now what are you going to do for rust prevention?
FW_Z71Burb's 2002 Suburban Z71
- Thread starter FW_Z71Burb
- Start date
FW_Z71Burb
Well-Known Member
what do you mean? she's MINT!!
send it
FW_Z71Burb
Well-Known Member
messaging this seller who is parting out a 2003 Z71 Burb (he's body swapping a 66 C10 on the frame and drivetrain)
https://www.facebook.com/share/185f2YoxS7/
so far I have:
- Z71 badging (mine has sun damage)
- rear washer fluid line
- interior door panel light housings
it also has a DVD player and double DIN that i might snag
any other small items i should stock up on?
https://www.facebook.com/share/185f2YoxS7/
so far I have:
- Z71 badging (mine has sun damage)
- rear washer fluid line
- interior door panel light housings
it also has a DVD player and double DIN that i might snag
any other small items i should stock up on?
stutaeng
Well-Known Member
Oh dang, that Z71 looks to be in great condition...
Your 2002 Z71 has the lights on the rear door panels, right? I think that was the last year of that. I've been meaning to add that, along with the footwell lights on Suburbans.
Your 2002 Z71 has the lights on the rear door panels, right? I think that was the last year of that. I've been meaning to add that, along with the footwell lights on Suburbans.
FW_Z71Burb
Well-Known Member
Yes and the lens covers broke off. I guess this 2003 wouldn’t have em?
I thought the same, seemed worth saving :/
stutaeng
Well-Known Member
Correct.
Another GMT800 destroyed probably to sacrifice for an old rusty POS in the name of the legendary LS drivetrain...oh well.
How are your headlights/tailights? If you want to get those, and get them to me, I can sand them and shoot them with 2k auto urethane clear whenever I do my projects. No pressure there tho...
And if you want to ask him about the windshield rear view mirror, I need that for my 04 project. Again, no pressure...Heck, I can probably meet you there. He's in Waxahachie, right?
FW_Z71Burb
Well-Known Member
Yea I was sad to see that one wasted for that type of project.
Mine need sanding and polishing, I have kit to do it just haven’t gotten around to it..
he’s out of town for a week but will probably have most things available
FW_Z71Burb
Well-Known Member
Got some car ramps a few months back and crawled under the Burb. Plenty of room to work.
I have a trans fluid and filter change coming up and thinking I wanna tackle this on my own. I did my Bronco in about 2 hours. Looks like I’ll need to remove the shifter linkage. Some video I watched they lowed the Y-pipe is that really necessary? Grateful this pan has a drain plug on it
Any ATF fluid and gasket recommendations ?
I have a trans fluid and filter change coming up and thinking I wanna tackle this on my own. I did my Bronco in about 2 hours. Looks like I’ll need to remove the shifter linkage. Some video I watched they lowed the Y-pipe is that really necessary? Grateful this pan has a drain plug on it
Any ATF fluid and gasket recommendations ?
You can unbolt the bracket that holds the linkage to the side and pop the end of the linkage off and move away for clearance. On the other side, unbolt and remove the shield(s), again for clearance. Drain the fluid because the less fluid in there means less spillage and a cleaner work area.
I gain exhaust clearance, one of two ways. I have never unbolted the Y-pipe. I either unbolt at the transmission mount and jack up the transmission for clearance. Perfect time to replace the transmission mount as well. Or, jack the Sub up on each side and set stands under the frame and then lower the Sub down to put weight on the stands. Then you take ratchet straps, one on each side, and wrap around the exhaust pipe and attach at the bottom of stands and pull the exhaust down and flex the exhaust mounts enough for clearance. it only needs about 1" to 2". Then you will have the room at back of pan for filter clearance.
I am assuming you have a 4L60E transmission. If the pan is flat on the bottom, then you have the shallow pan and that takes an ACD-TF289 filter and gasket kit. If it has a recess in the pan, not counting where the drain plug is, then you have the deep pan and the ACD-TF337 is the correct filter and gasket kit.
Use Valvoline full synthetic Max-Life transmission fluid for the refill. Should be red colored plastic jugs. Get 2 of the 1 gallon jugs. You will need more than just 1 gallon.
If the existing filter plug in seal is still tight on the new filter snout, then use it and will not need the new seal replacement. If is sloppy and will not hold the new filter up, then replace the seal. They are a PITA to do but watch a video or two and deal with it.
Make sure to clean all sealing surfaces and make dry. Where the bolts go thru the pan, on the transmission side, use a small ball peen hammer and tap the holes down flat/flush. Typically the holes are pulled a little and are not completely flat. I typically use a very light film of grey Permatex sealer on both sides of the gasket before reinstall. I mean, very light but very even, on both sides. Make sure pan and transmission surfaces are DRY.
Do a good even snug up on the bolts. back and forth, one side and then the other. Do not snug them up in a circle. Then a nice even tension on all 16 bolts. Reattach the shields and linkage components. Once you are completely done under the truck, put it all down on the flat ground. DO NOT FORGET TO REINSTALL THE DRAIN PLUG!
Add 1 gallon of fluid. Restart engine and add as needed, SLOWLY. Shift thru gears and let idle for around 15 minutes during all this. Then roadtest and recheck fluid level and add as needed. recheck for leaks and recheck fluid level over the next 2-3 days when fluid is hot, not warm, HOT.
I gain exhaust clearance, one of two ways. I have never unbolted the Y-pipe. I either unbolt at the transmission mount and jack up the transmission for clearance. Perfect time to replace the transmission mount as well. Or, jack the Sub up on each side and set stands under the frame and then lower the Sub down to put weight on the stands. Then you take ratchet straps, one on each side, and wrap around the exhaust pipe and attach at the bottom of stands and pull the exhaust down and flex the exhaust mounts enough for clearance. it only needs about 1" to 2". Then you will have the room at back of pan for filter clearance.
I am assuming you have a 4L60E transmission. If the pan is flat on the bottom, then you have the shallow pan and that takes an ACD-TF289 filter and gasket kit. If it has a recess in the pan, not counting where the drain plug is, then you have the deep pan and the ACD-TF337 is the correct filter and gasket kit.
Use Valvoline full synthetic Max-Life transmission fluid for the refill. Should be red colored plastic jugs. Get 2 of the 1 gallon jugs. You will need more than just 1 gallon.
If the existing filter plug in seal is still tight on the new filter snout, then use it and will not need the new seal replacement. If is sloppy and will not hold the new filter up, then replace the seal. They are a PITA to do but watch a video or two and deal with it.
Make sure to clean all sealing surfaces and make dry. Where the bolts go thru the pan, on the transmission side, use a small ball peen hammer and tap the holes down flat/flush. Typically the holes are pulled a little and are not completely flat. I typically use a very light film of grey Permatex sealer on both sides of the gasket before reinstall. I mean, very light but very even, on both sides. Make sure pan and transmission surfaces are DRY.
Do a good even snug up on the bolts. back and forth, one side and then the other. Do not snug them up in a circle. Then a nice even tension on all 16 bolts. Reattach the shields and linkage components. Once you are completely done under the truck, put it all down on the flat ground. DO NOT FORGET TO REINSTALL THE DRAIN PLUG!
Add 1 gallon of fluid. Restart engine and add as needed, SLOWLY. Shift thru gears and let idle for around 15 minutes during all this. Then roadtest and recheck fluid level and add as needed. recheck for leaks and recheck fluid level over the next 2-3 days when fluid is hot, not warm, HOT.
FW_Z71Burb
Well-Known Member
Damn @ORVietVet I really appreciate the help.. I feel like this should be pinned somewhere!
It’s not the shallow pan, so that’s extremely helpful. Confirmed 4L60E
I thought there was more clearance to the Y-pipe, but sounds like it won’t be as easy as I thought.. that dang y-pipe. I don’t have a jack or jack stands to do the job and won’t touch the y-pipe bolts.
It’s not the shallow pan, so that’s extremely helpful. Confirmed 4L60E
I thought there was more clearance to the Y-pipe, but sounds like it won’t be as easy as I thought.. that dang y-pipe. I don’t have a jack or jack stands to do the job and won’t touch the y-pipe bolts.
If you are unsure about the clearance, I would borrow or rent a floor jack, just in case. Sometimes you have to use small blocks of wood to get enough height for the jack to jack up at the tail of the transmission. You only want to jack up to get enough room for clearance. Do it slow and a little at a time. If have to, especially since you can drain the pan, you can unbolt and drop pan and reach in and pull the filter down and then remove pan and filter as one unit. If you have to remove that way, then reinstall is tricky tricky to try and keep sealing surfaces dry and clean.
I was in the shops close to 45 years. Only done a couple of these.
I was in the shops close to 45 years. Only done a couple of these.
Also, post a pic of the bottom of the pan. To be sure of shallow or deep. Makes a difference on the filter.
If the vehicle has rusted exhaust nuts/bolts, it's a nightmare if any breaks, rusted or not rusted.
If the vehicle has rusted exhaust nuts/bolts, it's a nightmare if any breaks, rusted or not rusted.
stutaeng
Well-Known Member
@ORVietVet the deep pan (with the step) on the 4L60e was introduced in 1997. All GMT800 came with the deep pan AFAIK. But please confirm as a sanitary check.
The matching deep pan filter has little dimple or feet on the corners.
Agreed, I've never had to mess with exhausts when doing a transmission fluid pan drop on my GMT800s, although itsway easier on the 2wd. The 4x4s are kinda a PIA to remove the rear pan bolts. A flexhead ratcheting wrench is what I've used in the past, with the help of some bilingual cussing, lol.
The matching deep pan filter has little dimple or feet on the corners.
Agreed, I've never had to mess with exhausts when doing a transmission fluid pan drop on my GMT800s, although itsway easier on the 2wd. The 4x4s are kinda a PIA to remove the rear pan bolts. A flexhead ratcheting wrench is what I've used in the past, with the help of some bilingual cussing, lol.
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FW_Z71Burb
Well-Known Member
Summer is here in TX. Burb gets a bath!
FW_Z71Burb
Well-Known Member
And yes @stutaeng @ORVietVet it is the deep trans pan
Ok, the deep pan means it needs more clearance at the back area where you snake the pan out. Pull out the back and to the side at same time. I have yet to have to take an exhaust loose to get a pan out.
FW_Z71Burb
Well-Known Member
Right but you do have to lift the trans or use the other method you described previously?
Yes. I believe the only exception is either a 2wd or maybe even a shallow pan set up.
I recently did a 2018 4x4 Suburban, with the 6 speed transmission and all I had to do was unbolt the transmission mount and wiggled the pan out the back and sideways.
FW_Z71Burb
Well-Known Member
That’s what I thought as well. Thanks again OR
