Work out of my garage/driveway

[ORVietVet]

Widow friend of an American Legion friend has a 1991 K2500 with a 5.7. Looked for source of drops on ground. The main leak is one of the oil cooler lines. If you look close at the second pic, you will see the oil drop getting ready to fall to the ground. No seepage at all from transmission cooler lines. Shows seepage at RMS and at the front d/s axle seal. She has a p/s headlight full of water too. Ordered parts today and will be doing both headlights, both oil cooler lines and the adaptor fittings at the oil filter cooler housing and will be getting rid of the transmission worm gear clamps used for the add on transmission cooler in the front and installing band clamps on the hoses.

 

[ORVietVet]

Neighbor up the street, that does not have much money. Daughter's 2012 Jeep Liberty 3.7. CEL on and the other day I pulled codes and had P0455, P0456 and P0457, all related to EVAP leak. The words Gas Cap was flashing at the DIC. I insisted on a dealer fuel cap instead of some of the crap out there. Installed cap after cleaning the seal surface of the sealing area of the metal fill tube and cleaning off the metal seal ring to bright metal and verified there was a nice round metal ring. Drove it for 3-4 days and CEL came on again and has never had running problems. Pulled the same 3 codes. I then decided to at least look at the under hood purge valve and all looked good and then followed the hard plastic line to back of engine. Saw a large wiring loom wrapped with factory convoluted tubing laying against the plastic tubing. Pulled it away and saw this. She has no extra money so I triple layered duct tape and cleared codes and showed her what you see here.

 

[1997]

nice work.

 

[ORVietVet]

I am a little disappointed that no one has said anything about the battery carry handle standing up instead of being folded down before the cables were reattached. The husband/father did that. When you close the hood, the top of handle hits the under hood insulation and has left a deep imprint. I will deal with that later.

 

[ORVietVet]

I do a lot of business with Auto Zone and Rock Auto but getting in and out of the AZ parking lot is a PITA and there is sometimes homeless to deal with. The local/closer NAPA wants my business and I am going to see them on Monday and try to work out a better discount than just the military discount. I went back to when I started using RA on 04/02/14 and to today's date I have spent $24,072.62 with them and since 04/05/22 with AZ have spent $16,519.84 and both total $40,592.46.

 

[ORVietVet]

Getting a 2005 Tahoe LS dropped off in about 15 minutes, for some easy work. Plugs, wires, ignition coils, clean MAF and clean throttle body. It is the same one I did the driver's door hinge pins on and also did the brake pedal pivot bushing on.

When I am done with it, she is gonna bring her 1991 K2500 5.7 over for oil cooler lines and adaptor fittings at the oil filter housing. New headlight assemblies and new band clamps on the add on transmission cooler rubber lines. They are not leaking now but will because of the worm gear clamps on there. Also replacing the mercury activated under hood light and the roll out engine compartment light, too.

Also gonna do a real quick look at a possible intermittent a/c inop problem. When works is cold. Recent driving, started blowing warm and then shut off and restarted the next morning and fine now since then. Only happened one time. Sneaking suspension that it is a high pressure switch. Possible clutch cycling switch at the accumulator, too.

 

[ORVietVet]

3.5 hours later, I removed the wires, ignition coils, coil racks, spark plugs, installed all new parts and cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body. If you look close, there was one plug on each side, #3 and #6 that had a small amount of carbon misfire buildup but it never set a code or even felt like there was a misfire. Road tested and ran out great with a smooth idle.

She is dropping off the 1991 K2500 5.7 on Sunday afternoon for Sunday and Monday work, if needed. Oil cooler lines and adaptor fittings at oil filter housing, new headlamp assemblies, new band clamps on the rubber lines for the added on transmission cooler, to replace the worm gear clamps.

 

[stutaeng]

Nice job. That engine looks pretty clean. Do you have a tip for not damaging the spark plug wires upon removal. I often wind up tearing the wire from the boot. I add dielectric grease on any new plugs and have tried various pliers, even the Lisle pliers designed for them. IDK what I do wrong? I try spinning them a bi to break the suction/bond as well.

 

[ORVietVet]

I was not as careful because I was replacing the wires. I would do as you said and twist a bunch to break the boot seal but even if you do that, I would bet the grip of the metal tang on the end of wire, is not spinning the same as the boot. Grab as deep as you can and wiggle all you can as you pull off. Even then, the metal tang has such a hard grasp at the spark plug tip, that even if it does not separate, it will likely damage at the plug wire to tang crimp area and cause a problem. I tell every customer that I am not gonna try to save the GM coil to spark plug wires. They need to do new wires, if I do them. I give them no option.