Work out of my garage/driveway

ORVietVet · Jul 5, 2025

Widow friend of an American Legion friend has a 1991 K2500 with a 5.7. Looked for source of drops on ground. The main leak is one of the oil cooler lines. If you look close at the second pic, you will see the oil drop getting ready to fall to the ground. No seepage at all from transmission cooler lines. Shows seepage at RMS and at the front d/s axle seal. She has a p/s headlight full of water too. Ordered parts today and will be doing both headlights, both oil cooler lines and the adaptor fittings at the oil filter cooler housing and will be getting rid of the transmission worm gear clamps used for the add on transmission cooler in the front and installing band clamps on the hoses.

ORVietVet · Jul 8, 2025

Neighbor up the street, that does not have much money. Daughter's 2012 Jeep Liberty 3.7. CEL on and the other day I pulled codes and had P0455, P0456 and P0457, all related to EVAP leak. The words Gas Cap was flashing at the DIC. I insisted on a dealer fuel cap instead of some of the crap out there. Installed cap after cleaning the seal surface of the sealing area of the metal fill tube and cleaning off the metal seal ring to bright metal and verified there was a nice round metal ring. Drove it for 3-4 days and CEL came on again and has never had running problems. Pulled the same 3 codes. I then decided to at least look at the under hood purge valve and all looked good and then followed the hard plastic line to back of engine. Saw a large wiring loom wrapped with factory convoluted tubing laying against the plastic tubing. Pulled it away and saw this. She has no extra money so I triple layered duct tape and cleared codes and showed her what you see here.

1997 · Jul 8, 2025

nice work.

ORVietVet · Jul 8, 2025

I am a little disappointed that no one has said anything about the battery carry handle standing up instead of being folded down before the cables were reattached. The husband/father did that. When you close the hood, the top of handle hits the under hood insulation and has left a deep imprint. I will deal with that later.

ORVietVet · Jul 11, 2025

I do a lot of business with Auto Zone and Rock Auto but getting in and out of the AZ parking lot is a PITA and there is sometimes homeless to deal with. The local/closer NAPA wants my business and I am going to see them on Monday and try to work out a better discount than just the military discount. I went back to when I started using RA on 04/02/14 and to today's date I have spent $24,072.62 with them and since 04/05/22 with AZ have spent $16,519.84 and both total $40,592.46.

ORVietVet · Jul 15, 2025

Getting a 2005 Tahoe LS dropped off in about 15 minutes, for some easy work. Plugs, wires, ignition coils, clean MAF and clean throttle body. It is the same one I did the driver's door hinge pins on and also did the brake pedal pivot bushing on.

When I am done with it, she is gonna bring her 1991 K2500 5.7 over for oil cooler lines and adaptor fittings at the oil filter housing. New headlight assemblies and new band clamps on the add on transmission cooler rubber lines. They are not leaking now but will because of the worm gear clamps on there. Also replacing the mercury activated under hood light and the roll out engine compartment light, too.

Also gonna do a real quick look at a possible intermittent a/c inop problem. When works is cold. Recent driving, started blowing warm and then shut off and restarted the next morning and fine now since then. Only happened one time. Sneaking suspension that it is a high pressure switch. Possible clutch cycling switch at the accumulator, too.

ORVietVet · Jul 16, 2025

3.5 hours later, I removed the wires, ignition coils, coil racks, spark plugs, installed all new parts and cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body. If you look close, there was one plug on each side, #3 and #6 that had a small amount of carbon misfire buildup but it never set a code or even felt like there was a misfire. Road tested and ran out great with a smooth idle.

She is dropping off the 1991 K2500 5.7 on Sunday afternoon for Sunday and Monday work, if needed. Oil cooler lines and adaptor fittings at oil filter housing, new headlamp assemblies, new band clamps on the rubber lines for the added on transmission cooler, to replace the worm gear clamps.

stutaeng · Jul 16, 2025

Nice job. That engine looks pretty clean. Do you have a tip for not damaging the spark plug wires upon removal. I often wind up tearing the wire from the boot. I add dielectric grease on any new plugs and have tried various pliers, even the Lisle pliers designed for them. IDK what I do wrong? I try spinning them a bi to break the suction/bond as well.

ORVietVet · Jul 16, 2025

I was not as careful because I was replacing the wires. I would do as you said and twist a bunch to break the boot seal but even if you do that, I would bet the grip of the metal tang on the end of wire, is not spinning the same as the boot. Grab as deep as you can and wiggle all you can as you pull off. Even then, the metal tang has such a hard grasp at the spark plug tip, that even if it does not separate, it will likely damage at the plug wire to tang crimp area and cause a problem. I tell every customer that I am not gonna try to save the GM coil to spark plug wires. They need to do new wires, if I do them. I give them no option.

someotherguy · Jul 17, 2025

ORVietVet said:
3.5 hours later, I removed the wires, ignition coils, coil racks, spark plugs, installed all new parts and cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body. If you look close, there was one plug on each side, #3 and #6 that had a small amount of carbon misfire buildup but it never set a code or even felt like there was a misfire. Road tested and ran out great with a smooth idle.

She is dropping off the 1991 K2500 5.7 on Sunday afternoon for Sunday and Monday work, if needed. Oil cooler lines and adaptor fittings at oil filter housing, new headlamp assemblies, new band clamps on the rubber lines for the added on transmission cooler, to replace the worm gear clamps.

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How common is it to see hydroboost on those trucks? I'm used to seeing vacuum on practically all light duty gas trucks.

Richard

ORVietVet · Jul 17, 2025

stutaeng said:
Nice job. That engine looks pretty clean. Do you have a tip for not damaging the spark plug wires upon removal. I often wind up tearing the wire from the boot. I add dielectric grease on any new plugs and have tried various pliers, even the Lisle pliers designed for them. IDK what I do wrong? I try spinning them a bi to break the suction/bond as well.

About 6 months ago, I did the valve covers replacement because the PCV system was junk and the gaskets were leaking and so filthy, could not clean them. Put some new covers on.

ORVietVet · Jul 17, 2025

someotherguy said:
How common is it to see hydroboost on those trucks? I'm used to seeing vacuum on practically all light duty gas trucks.

Richard

Very common on the Z71 Tahoes and others when it is ordered that way. This is a 2005 Tahoe LS. Very basic but the original owner is a member at my local A/L and he said he ordered it that way. I was surprised the first time I popped the hood.

stutaeng · Jul 18, 2025

Wikipedia says Hydroboost became standard starting in 2004. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Tahoe

Interesting that the "Tahoe" badge was removed starting this year. Further, in 2006 they removed the liftgate badge as well. I had always wondered why neither my 04 or 06 Suburbans don't have the door badges? I guess that's why...I "think" the 04 does have the liftgate badge.

Also, it mentions a new air deflector that helps improve fuel efficiency in 2005, along with electric fans. I had no idea there was such as thing as a updated air deflector; thought all were the same? I wonder what the revised/updated one looks like?

ORVietVet · Jul 18, 2025

Well, now I gotta look at the 04 K2500HD air deflector and my 05 Tahoe deflector and see what is different.

Previous 05 Tahoe owner, name is Larry. All Larry's exaggerate. I asked and he said he asked for it and maybe he did but the dealer/seller told him that since 05, all of them have hydro-boost.

MADDOG · Jul 18, 2025

All those jobs are nicely done. Those EVAP codes can mean any of 3 or 4 failure modes and can be tricky to track down.

someotherguy · Jul 18, 2025

stutaeng said:
Wikipedia says Hydroboost became standard starting in 2004. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Tahoe

Interesting that the "Tahoe" badge was removed starting this year. Further, in 2006 they removed the liftgate badge as well. I had always wondered why neither my 04 or 06 Suburbans don't have the door badges? I guess that's why...I "think" the 04 does have the liftgate badge.

Also, it mentions a new air deflector that helps improve fuel efficiency in 2005, along with electric fans. I had no idea there was such as thing as a updated air deflector; thought all were the same? I wonder what the revised/updated one looks like?

Maybe on the Tahoe since that's the article you're looking at, but definitely not on the pickups. Both our 06's we've had are vacuum boost brakes.

Richard

stutaeng · Jul 18, 2025

someotherguy said:
Maybe on the Tahoe since that's the article you're looking at, but definitely not on the pickups. Both our 06's we've had are vacuum boost brakes.

Richard

Oh yeah, sorry. It's only on the SUVs. Not on the 1500 pick-up trucks.

ORVietVet · Jul 20, 2025

Well, got the 1991 K2500 5.7 dropped this morning. Got the new headlights in, PITA silver grill/bumper filler with push pins to attach at bottom of grill. All releasing and reinstalling of those pins is done blind from above by releasing all other grill bolts and screws and lean it out and then took a clip to find the push clip heads and pry down and pull the pins out. Got the headlights installed and then reinstall pins from below, strictly by feel. I have said before that I have eyes in the end of my fingers. Installed new under hood light and wired in and then replaced the roll out engine bay light and verified both work fine. Then on to the engine oil cooler lines. Changed the adaptors at the oil filter housing. 26mm wrench to break loose. early this morning, I hit them with PB Blaster and let it work at the threads while I did the other work. The lower adaptor cane out after breaking loose and then using a 26mm socket. No such luck with the upper adaptor. Could not slip the thin wall socket between the adaptor and the rolled lip of the oil pan. Had to do 1/8th turns with my wrench and then finally loose enough to unthread with fingers. Routed the new lines and attached at the stand off and then threaded in at the radiator. Topped off lost oil and ran for 15 minutes at idle and no leaks. Road test and checked and no leaks. 4 total hours for everything.

ORVietVet · Jul 20, 2025

someotherguy · Jul 22, 2025

Those 88-93 grilles are easier to deal with (IMO) if you just remove it complete with that lower filler strip attached; it screws to the core support with 4 or 5 screws. You can reach the middle one through that slot at the center, and the others once the park lamps are out of the way.

I've got oil cooler lines for Critter, and power steering pressure hose for Sierra Red coming tomorrow. Which reminds me Just Red needs oil cooler lines, too. Jeezus.. all the stuff I forget to order.

I ordered the Sunsong oil cooler lines. Figured why pay extra for Dorman when I know the Dormans are junk, by reputation? Sunsong is an OE for GM brake flex hoses, so hopefully the oil cooler lines will hold up for a reasonable period.

Richard