New to GMT800

[vince72]

Hey Guys,
I just picked up a 2003 Z71 Silverado as my daily driver. It has 180k miles but looks to be well cared for ( I purchased it from the original owners grandson)
It has the typical steering clunk and AC issues. I hope to find great info on this site. My plan is to just have a nice driver that is reliable

 

[someotherguy]

Howdy Vince, welcome from another GMT400'er

The redesigned (many times) intermediate steering shaft and lower column bearing should cure the clunk, and the A/C service ports are fairly simple to replace.

I did the service ports on my '06 recently as they showed signs of slight leakage although the A/C was still working, I knew it was just a matter of time.

The steering shaft and bearing I did probably 80K miles ago and it's still quiet, so I guess GM finally got it right. Probably about similar miles on my wife's '06 as well. A little bit of a pain contorting yourself under the dash to replace those parts but overall a simple job. Just be sure you secure the steering wheel with a bungee cord, ratchet strap, something so it can't turn while you have the shaft disconnected, because otherwise the clockspring will become damaged. It can move a little, that's fine, you just don't want it making an actual revolution in either direction because then the clockspring isn't in the correct wound position anymore. Anyway, literally a 30 minute job start to finish.

This is replacing it on my wife's truck - old vs. new on both items. My recommendation is GM only for both. The bearing just pushes in at the bottom of the column tube inside the cab; some gentle persuading at the exposed edge with a very small hammer will start it sliding out. I ordered GM # 19329330 shaft (currently about $60) and GM # 88963617 bearing (about $33) - those fit '06 models and probably yours too but double check to be sure.


Bungee cord run from the spoke to the shifter kept the wheel in place.


Replacing the A/C service ports on my truck was a snap, even though I didn't have the oddball socket for the high side, I was able to remove it with an adjustable wrench. It's not super tight or anything, being an aluminum fitting in a thin aluminum tube. I did need to run down to the parts house and get a valve core tool for the low side as a regular tire tool didn't have enough reach. "Xtra Seal" brand # 15-3174 you can see on my core support with the black/orange handle got it done for under $7. The service port kit I used was Four Seasons 26775 which I paid a little extra from amzn to get it here quick, still less than $15. I used some Nylog blue sealant on the threads and o-rings as well.



Richard

 

[vince72]

Hey Richard!
I ordered the wolf engineering bearing and Dorman lower shaft I hope that fixes the clunk. I’m working on the ac blend door repair and noticed that the previous owner melted the little shaft shut so not sure what I can do there?

 

[someotherguy]

Can you get some clear pics of the melted shaft end? I haven't done any real work on the interior side of the A/C on a GMT800 yet (other than the blower motor resistor module, twice now...) so I'm a bit unfamiliar with the setup. Also need to fix the recirculate on my truck but from what I've read it can be a bit complicated.

Richard

 

[vince72]

I will work on getting some clear photos. We are also replacing the ac evaporator tube due to a leak in the valve area.

 

[ORVietVet]

Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

I just bought a GMT800 2004 Silverado K2500HD. Dec. 1, and have the "clunk" noises. I have done that repair before and not looking forward to it. I will be 72 in 2 days and going back under that dash is hard on a 6'4" tall 280 pounds man like me. I hope to have enough legitimate pains so that I can get sympathy food from my girl.

 

[ORVietVet]

@someotherguy, where are you finding a Genuine GM part #19329330 for $60. I see GM Parts Giant at that price but is out of stock. Is that where you are referring?

 

[ORVietVet]

Hey Richard!
I ordered the wolf engineering bearing and Dorman lower shaft I hope that fixes the clunk. I’m working on the ac blend door repair and noticed that the previous owner melted the little shaft shut so not sure what I can do there?

I have seen how those Wolf Engineering column bearings work. From what I can see, removing the gas pedal assembly gives more room to remove the old plastic housing/bearing. If you take an extra step and unbolt the bottom bolt on the intermediate shaft, whether you are replacing or not, and remove the shaft and let it drop down, you get even way more room. The install of the new bearing, Wolf or GM, needs some room. In my opinion, when you get the old bearing assembly out, reach up in there with a Scotch Brite pad and clean as best as you can and then wipe it down and then lube the crap out of the inside of the housing, with white lithium grease. Also, remove the 4 set pins and use the red Loc-Tite they give you and apply now, before the bearing is installed. Lube the outer part of bearing, where the o-rings are, with white lithium grease. Then line it all up square and shove it in as far as it will go. There is a lip you want to try and seat at the bottom of the column shaft. I saw a guy use a 15/16" open end wrench that he straddled the inner shaft with and tapped the bearing up in place. Then reassemble as needed, after tightening the 4 female allen head pins.

It is best to have the new intermediate shaft with you but unless there is play at the upper u-joints, it may not be needed.

I looked for a Genuine GM and only found it at Amazon for close to $170. Plenty of Dorman stuff though. I am not a fan of Dorman.

 

[ORVietVet]

Vince asked for some pics of my new 2004 Silverado K2500HD

 

[someotherguy]

@someotherguy, where are you finding a Genuine GM part #19329330 for $60. I see GM Parts Giant at that price but is out of stock. Is that where you are referring?

Crap.. when I looked it didn't give off any flags.. GM Parts Giant now says out of stock. I just looked on GMPartsdirect and it says it's discontinued.

eBay has one claiming to be GM OEM for $65, then you look at the "full description" and it says it's a Dorman. Scammers.

Richard

 

[ORVietVet]

Crap.. when I looked it didn't give off any flags.. GM Parts Giant now says out of stock. I just looked on GMPartsdirect and it says it's discontinued.

eBay has one claiming to be GM OEM for $65, then you look at the "full description" and it says it's a Dorman. Scammers.

Richard

Yes, I saw the one at ebay and looked closely and saw what you saw. The one at Amazon is $170. I sent an email/message to GM Parts Giant about when back in stock and no answer. Every other place says discontinued. Then I looked real close and actually, there is no real need for replacement of that intermediate shaft if the u-joints are tight. You can get in there and check the u-joints before ordering the shaft, if needed. I have ordered the Genuine GM collar/bearing. My girl said she would order the shaft from Amazon, if needed, for my birthday tomorrow.

 

[ORVietVet]

Crap.. when I looked it didn't give off any flags.. GM Parts Giant now says out of stock. I just looked on GMPartsdirect and it says it's discontinued.

eBay has one claiming to be GM OEM for $65, then you look at the "full description" and it says it's a Dorman. Scammers.

Richard

I just got an email reply from GM Parts Giant. They said the shaft is back ordered and hints that it is now discontinued. Looks like a new one from Amazon is in the works, if I need it. Gonna check today if there is any play in the u-joints.

 

[ORVietVet]

Crap.. when I looked it didn't give off any flags.. GM Parts Giant now says out of stock. I just looked on GMPartsdirect and it says it's discontinued.

eBay has one claiming to be GM OEM for $65, then you look at the "full description" and it says it's a Dorman. Scammers.

Richard

I just crawled under that dash and the shaft u-joints are tight. Plenty of slop in the collar/bearing. You can feel and see the collar flopping around inside the column metal sleeve.

Tight fit for my 6'4" and 280 lbs. frame under there. The work will be easy enough but very tight for me. Gonna see about unbolting seat and move back and lock down the steering wheel some other way.

 

[someotherguy]

I just crawled under that dash and the shaft u-joints are tight. Plenty of slop in the collar/bearing. You can feel and see the collar flopping around inside the column metal sleeve.

Tight fit for my 6'4" and 280 lbs. frame under there. The work will be easy enough but very tight for me. Gonna see about unbolting seat and move back and lock down the steering wheel some other way.

Yeah, the plastic bearing doesn't inspire much confidence, but at $30ish it's not a tough decision and so far my replacement has lasted around 80k-ish miles.

The shaft replacement was pretty common when these trucks were still fairly new. GM redesigned that shaft multiple times over the years so apparently it was a big problem for a while.

Check my pic on using a bungee cord to tie the wheel to the shifter. Real easy and out of the way. Your idea of unbolting the seat to move it back sounds like a good one, too.

Richard

 

[ORVietVet]

When I checked the u-joint slop and seat was all the way back, it was tight for me, especially with my butt and legs supporting me from the ground. Console means no access from the passenger side. I will figure it out. As tight as it is for me, that could mean a 1 hour job turns in to 3 hours.