Anyone have a cam on their 6.0?

[silverado13]

You may want to do some serious research on cams before considering one. Cams put a lot more stress on the valve train. In essence they can push your valves further open, increase ramp rates etc. I am no expert just a hobbyist, but from my understanding, the increased ramp rates are capable of breaking your stock springs. This puts you are risk of dropping a valve into a cylinder and boom. Also typically after market cams will give you more mid and top end power. So, it would be silly to cam your motor and not take full advantage of your new powerband, by not redlining higher. Hope this was a little helpful.

yes this was helpful i do need to do alot of research before tackling it but the proble is all the information is essentially chinese to me, i need to start of at cam 101, thats why finding a "hobbyist" is the most helpful

 

[962000chevy]

yes this was helpful i do need to do alot of research before tackling it but the proble is all the information is essentially chinese to me, i need to start of at cam 101, thats why finding a "hobbyist" is the most helpful

Google camshaft 101. And start reading. As someone who studied Mandarin Chinese camshafts are still tough to wrap mind around.

 

[silverado13]

mandarin chinese, thats a hell of a thing to study

 

[Mrhorsepowerlsx]

Let me see if I can answer your cam questions here. I have built a wide varity of LSx motors from cars/trucks/boats and for retro-fits from 4.8's to skies the limits sizes. Soo if I correct any ones messages on here, I mean no harm by it, I'm just trying to shed some light as this is a widely discussed topic.



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My Truck is 6.0 based, TSP cam (224/228 .581/.588 114 LSA)

The chromoly pushrods would be recommended if you are reving past 6k IMO. As for beehives or dual coil u will need a set of one of em. You should also consider the comp cams true union kit as I did, to replace the faulty needle bearings that come in our stock rockers (only 100 bucks). Good luck

You should use chromoly pushrods any time you swap a cam. Reason being is all cam swaps require swapping valve springs. The lift of the cam and application of use will dictate what type of springs to be used. When you swap a camshaft you create an unstable valvetrain with " stock " springs. Aftermarket cams have a more aggressive ramp rate then stock spings(a), and they also have more valve lift then what stock spings can hold before coil bind(b), and when you increase your spring rate to keep valve float in check you NEED stronger pushrods to keep the valves open at higher then "stock" lift numbers. You can build a motor to rev to 4500rpms or 12k rpms, but you still need good pushrods/springs to compensate for the increased lift.

Honestly LS manifolds flow really well so I'd skip the shorties especially if you want a cam. That cam will like long tubes much much more.

^ This is true for stock applications with cold air's and cat backs, once you start changing how much air is entering the combustion chambers, those manifolds fall short of helping gain HP, Shorties are a great way to help gain good low end torque all around, stock or modded. Those manifolds do flow extremely well though when flipped over and turbos are bolted to them. But as far as performance goes on a NA motor, but just like everything else they have their limits as well. Sooo shorties are a good thing. To help understand, the more air you stuff in a motor the more air you need to remove in a timely and efficent fashion.

The problem with the 6.0 isn't that it doesn't already produce enough horsepower, but that the torque converter for the automatic transmission is so heavy that it robs more horsepower then what the 6.0 upgrade produces.
^ The 80E uses a 13" TC just a 60,65,70,75e...etc. The difference in the 80 is that is uses "higher" gear ratios that take the motor to a different power band and it keeps them there longer, making there power band more effiecent and use more fuel, plus 6K lbs and 4:10's factory with a 32" tire doesnt help MPG's. Some G Vans are powered by 4.8/80e's and they still get the same fuel economy as a 6.0/80e. As far a performance upgrades go the 6.0/80e is no different then a LS2/T56 except for power to weight


If you get rid of the 4L80 - 85 transmission and use something else - like a standard shift transmission, you can get more performance then you can with just a simple cam swap.
^This is true but the majority or 6.0/80e equipped vehicles are 3/4 ton trucks and the few H2's out there. As the rest goes, most are 6.0/Super Duty 65/70e trans found in the Silverado SS, GMC Sierra VHO, TBSS, LS2 GTO and C6 Vettes. So if you have a working 6.0/80e combo KEEP IT!! DONT DOWN GRADE AN UPGRADE

Anything you do to a electronic equipped engine / power train combo is going to affect everything else, hence it will probably require some type of aftermarket retune.

^ Not exactly true, You can buy a hand held tuner and reap rewards of 15-25rwhp with just a tuner and simple mods all by chaing the spark tabels,VE tables, Shift rpms, fuel being used on bone stock motors, the gains go up as the mods increase.

I hope that this helps give you some more answers to your questions. Please feel free to ask more questions and I will gladly help answer them

 

[silverado13]

tune done, my guy said 6.0s are chocked down via the tune, get it tunes and see if theres a difference