Thankfully, no - if it did, my focus would still be as it is now,Do you have air ride on Tahoe? The trailblazer has same rear setup right?
GK torsion bars, FT keys. That definitely helps.Here’s my Silverado rpo list for HD 2500 wt with good load options, I think it may be diff for suburban but it shows what each value means to gm ...
So are stiffer (thicker) coils. Since my Z71 did not come with any air shocks or springs,Doesn't make sense to me, since an air spring is designed for this very purpose.
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Either way you are adding something it didn't have originally. The benefit to adding the air spring is you just drop it to 5psi and your stock coil is behaving as normal.So are stiffer (thicker) coils. Since my Z71 did not come with any air shocks or springs,
adding an air spring system (at least to me) seems more complicated than choosing better suited coils, which will also improve handling when unloaded;
the vast majority of the time, I am UNloaded.

Adding air springs and an air spring system still leaves me with easily schmushed coils (AND bars).Either way you are adding something it didn't have originally.
The benefit to adding the air spring is you just drop it to 5psi and your stock coil is behaving as normal.
Think I prefer the Timbren rubber bumps over the Sumo airy foam bumps, but those will come AFTER the stiffer bars / coils.Yeah, I agree with @CPB. Timken, Sumo or air helpers, and 'send it'.
Not trying to make a Tahoe 2500 (or use it like one!), there's likely a reason why GM avoided doing that.... regardless, you can't compare a lighter vehicle with the same torsion bars as a heavier vehicle because they don't weigh the same: damping factors are unequal.
And the rear suspension stiffness won't be the same either (coil spring vs leaf springs, even with stiffer coil springs,) so there's that.
I think even different wheelbase lengths may have an effect on ride quality ... So it's not an apples-to-oranges comparison.
Can I make use of this:
Part Details
www.drivparts.com
Looks like a jounce bumper for an H2 or for 2500s & 3500s ... ?

Kryptonite sells these? One of the few companies that seems to have a reputation superior to GM OE. If so I'll get it from them.View attachment 3814
This is a black version of that one (kryptonite) on a 2500HD
The squish is probably because I did not yet replace shock absorbers, since doing so the shape has 80% returned to proper
if your front suspension matches this yes you can use it, but to my knowledge you cant because i assume yours is like the 1500 which is im pretty sure different
i dont see any listed under 1500 or suv sectionKryptonite sells these? One of the few companies that seems to have a reputation superior to GM OE. If so I'll get it from them.
Stiff. I have AT tires on my rig, ok when dry, terrible when wet. Part of that is how heavily sprung the vehicle is. My experience from racing cars is that the first mods for performance handling are tires, shocks, and sway bars. Poly bushings sacrifice ride for stiffer handling too. SUV's have extra wallow as their center of gravity is higher.Hopefully I won't need to start another thread to ask 2500 owners how stiff they think their rides are ...
If I have to choose between them, vs Timbren rubber bumps ... gotta think on that one ...i dont see any listed under 1500 or suv section
they are not the same im 99% sure so you probably cant use them without making a bracket of some kind
these are designed to always contact the suspension when at rest
Ok, so, if I go too stiff, I can expect wet braking to get worse? Is that what you're getting at?Stiff. I have AT tires on my rig, ok when dry, terrible when wet. Part of that is how heavily sprung the vehicle is.
Pretty much, except also springs.My experience from racing cars is that the first mods for performance handling are tires, shocks, and sway bars.
Since I'm not racing for profit or glory, I'll use GM OE S10 bushings instead of polyurethane - unless I can find S10 polyGRAPHITE bushings.Poly bushings sacrifice ride for stiffer handling too. SUV's have extra wallow as their center of gravity is higher.
Was it a Tahoe/Yukon or a Suburban/XL? Or was it a pickup truck?There is a vid that went through the groups of a gmt800 spinning out, high center of gravity, too heavily sprung, it'll lift a wheel, lose contact patch.
At risk of redundancy, I was actually asking if anyone knows anywhere else, besides junkyards, to source stiffer torsion bars?For now, only question left is: where do I source torsion bars?
(Am I stuck with used torsion bars from junkyards?)
Hummer H2 non-air springIf mods think this post belongs in a different subforum, please move where best.
Tried asking over @ TYF, zero responses as of now ...
GMT800 Stiffer front torsion AND rear coil springs?
Yday I did a friend a HUGE favor: folded down the seats & loaded about 450SqFt of rolled-up Kentucky BlueGrass into the back of my Tahoe Z71. (Any idea how much that weighs?) Wish I'd had the presence of mind to take measurements, damnt, but I know these things: 1. Unloaded, my Z71 is too tall...www.tahoeyukonforum.com
Hauled 46 5ft by 2ft rolls of Kentucky BlueGrass in my '02 Tahoe Z71's cargo area on Friday,
which shoved the trailer hitch down to about 12" off the ground at rest.
Since I'm very likely to do some very heavy hauling like this again in the near future,
the idea of turning my Tahoe into a '2500' in hauling terms (NOT TOWING!) is about to become a necessity.
I really think I need stiffer SPRINGS front and back. Now I'm trying to figure out how much stiffer a Tahoe can safely go.
1. Any '2500' vehicle owners in the NYC area, whether pickup or Suburban? I'd like an idea of what I'm getting into.
2. Anyone know which front torsion bars and coil springs were used by a Suburban 2500?