My first GMT800, 01 2500HD LQ4

[CPB]

View attachment 2855
I dont think this will work on the fuel line by the tank
And up by the engine, as i edited my previous question, i fear about fire risk.

do you know where the check valve is on the fuel pump assembly? If its on the bottom, then there could be a bad hose on the fuel pump module that goes from the check valve to the top. if its on the top, theres a chance you could fix it by removing from the tank and ensuring the sock is clean and the hose is in good shape and the outlet pipes arent leaking.

I've been able to press into that style of line on some other vehicles by repurposing a line flaring tool. Basically after cutting the rigid plastic line the tool can be used to press barbed or other style of fittings.

The check-valve is internal to the assembly from all the information I've seen. Mine flows perfectly, just doesn't work as a one-way anymore to prevent pressure drop during cranking.

 

[CPB]

Does your mirror on the driver side shake while driving, and have a tendancy to point downward over time?

Very mild shake from air at speeds above PSL. Never enough to change the adjustment.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I've been able to press into that style of line on some other vehicles by repurposing a line flaring tool. Basically after cutting the rigid plastic line the tool can be used to press barbed or other style of fittings.

The check-valve is internal to the assembly from all the information I've seen. Mine flows perfectly, just doesn't work as a one-way anymore to prevent pressure drop during cranking.

pressure shouldnt drop during a lot cranking, the fuel pump is powered during cranking

What does a fuel pressure gauge say when you key on and then leave it on and just watch the gauge for a while?

 

[CPB]

pressure shouldnt drop during a lot cranking, the fuel pump is powered during cranking

What does a fuel pressure gauge say when you key on and then leave it on and just watch the gauge for a while?

Correct, it shouldn't drop. However when the check-valve fails it will drop. It's a very common failure on these and unfortunately most end up just having to replace the entire unit to address the check-valve.

 

[AuroraGirl]

i would advise checking out the thing before modifying your fuel line to put a check valve in
Plus, im pretty sure its not able to hold a column of fuel in the forward portion all the way to the rail from the tank
I could be wrong, theres no installation documents on dormans site, but to me , logically it would check valve with a volume of gas behind it rather than ahead of it

 

[CPB]

i would advise checking out the thing before modifying your fuel line to put a check valve in
Plus, im pretty sure its not able to hold a column of fuel in the forward portion all the way to the rail from the tank
I could be wrong, theres no installation documents on dormans site, but to me , logically it would check valve with a volume of gas behind it rather than ahead of it

I can install in the required direction.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I can install in the required direction.

View attachment 2865

I still think its sketchy. But if you want to try it, just make sure that if it were to pop apart, it doesnt have a spray path directly at the exhaust (install a tube or secure somewhere)

I also didnt mean about it being backwards but if it worked for them it might for you

 

[CPB]

I still think its sketchy. But if you want to try it, just make sure that if it were to pop apart, it doesnt have a spray path directly at the exhaust (install a tube or secure somewhere)

I also didnt mean about it being backwards but if it worked for them it might for you

If that's the case I'll refrain from showing photos of other fuel systems in my fleet. Plus its on opposite side of the vehicle relative to exhaust.

 

[AuroraGirl]

If that's the case I'll refrain from showing photos of other fuel systems in my fleet. Plus its on opposite side of the vehicle relative to exhaust.

lol you dont have to worry about anything, im just saying what comes to mind for me as what would be safe/wise lol



I myself have a check valve on a carbureted 350

 

[ORVietVet]

I would suggest fuel injection band clamps instead of the worm gear clamps or the spring clamps.

 

[CPB]

Got everything out of those original bump stops.

 

[stutaeng]

View attachment 3158
View attachment 3159

Got everything out of those original bump stops.

Nice! I need to replace those on my 04 project Suburban. Where did you get them and do you have a part number?

 

[CPB]

Nice! I need to replace those on my 04 project Suburban. Where did you get them and do you have a part number?

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[AuroraGirl]

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copies of the kryptonite ones but nice



I went a few months without replacing my shocks (this is the driver side best i can tell...) and my driver side shock was 100% not shocking (it literally will stay where its stroked to and doesnt resist, but it squeaks)
The passenger side had a tiny bit of shock left

The jounce became deflected because of that extra stress

If your shocks are good they should be fine

 

[CPB]

Installed new endlinks, UCA and LCA ball joints. The original ones were very stuck. It was tempting to just replace the entire control arm.

 

[ORVietVet]

View attachment 3625

View attachment 3626

Installed new endlinks, UCA and LCA ball joints. The original ones were very stuck. It was tempting to just replace the entire control arm.

Which begs the question....how does the control arm bushings look?

 

[CPB]

Which begs the question....how does the control arm bushings look?

Definitely tired. I'll get a tool for the torsion beam and press in some new bushings eventually.

 

[stutaeng]

I did upper and lower control arms/bushings on my 06 Suburban 2500 several years ago. Looks similar to your 2500HD suspension. You don't have to unload the torsion bar keys, just remove the anchor though-bolts at the control arms, and they come straight out since the tension is already removed.

The bushings were a PIA to remove and install, but it was my first time doing that. I used a ball joint C-clamp to remove the old ones with a bit of heat from a heat gun. To reinstall them, I used a 20 ton press. The bushings themselves are not that expensive IIRC. The LCA are heavy forged pieces, and very spendy to replace, so it makes sense to simply replace the bushings. The UCA is stamped/welded steel. Those bushings are easier to replace, however.

If you don't have a press, you can probably take them to a shop for replacement. They may not charge you that much? I've seen some guys say they burn the old ones off, but IDK if that's a good idea to heat the metal to higher temperatures?

 

[CPB]

I've got a hydraulic press, so should be good there.

 

[ORVietVet]

I did upper and lower control arms/bushings on my 06 Suburban 2500 several years ago. Looks similar to your 2500HD suspension. You don't have to unload the torsion bar keys, just remove the anchor though-bolts at the control arms, and they come straight out since the tension is already removed.

The bushings were a PIA to remove and install, but it was my first time doing that. I used a ball joint C-clamp to remove the old ones with a bit of heat from a heat gun. To reinstall them, I used a 20 ton press. The bushings themselves are not that expensive IIRC. The LCA are heavy forged pieces, and very spendy to replace, so it makes sense to simply replace the bushings. The UCA is stamped/welded steel. Those bushings are easier to replace, however.

If you don't have a press, you can probably take them to a shop for replacement. They may not charge you that much? I've seen some guys say they burn the old ones off, but IDK if that's a good idea to heat the metal to higher temperatures?

When they "burn" them out, they are just melting the rubber bushing and then the inner sleeve falls out and the outer sleeve is easier to "coax" to fold inward to make it easier to remove....or press out.