2004 RCSB 4x4 - The Mail Truck

[INW-Iron-Steel]

Revamping the audio system. The blue Soundstream amp we installed years ago finally called it quits. No complaints, we found it stashed in the rafters after it had been pulled out of an old Four Winns. The RCA inputs went bad, but I'm sentimental. I have it stashed away in case I find someone who can repair it. Old-school USA made components are hard to come by these days. I replaced it with a low-buck Memphis and some new RCAs. This system is super basic, door speakers wired to the amp, cab speakers running to the head-unit. This amp is a much better match to the system as it has a low-pass filter and I don't have subs. I ditched the plastic trim cover across the back of the cab and mounted the new amp low. You cannot see it with the seats in. Hilariously, I don't have any pictures of the interior of this truck fully assembled.

Disassembly and final testing with a 3rd set of RCAs before finally giving up on the Soundstream.


Going back together. The bed works great for seat storage.


I need to take some more pictures of the interior, and also some of the more basic mods I've done to this thing over the years

 

[TooleyOnDeck]

I'm always interested in seeing guy's sound system setups in these trucks bc I don't even know where to start on mine. My speakers were all blown so I bought some cheapo MTX replacements just to make it tolerable but I've been out of the audio game so long I don't know what's good anymore lol.

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

I'm always interested in seeing guy's sound system setups in these trucks bc I don't even know where to start on mine. My speakers were all blown so I bought some cheapo MTX replacements just to make it tolerable but I've been out of the audio game so long I don't know what's good anymore lol.

Same! I feel like an audio system is the prefect way to personalize your truck! I am not an audio guy by any means, but my go-to has almost always been Alpine for head-units and coax speakers. My results have always been good, and their products don't break the bank. The Alpine head-unit is the original we put in years ago, as well as the cab 4x6s. The coax door speakers are currently some Focals' I pulled out of another project at saved. The 6.5 alpines were done after years of abuse getting all the low-frequency stuff. The Memphis amp is nothing special, but it is plenty loud for a single cab... I listen to a lot of grunge and old rock, so I don't really care for that teeth rattling base anyway.

With that said, I'm not sure I would personally put a sub and box in a regular cab. There's not much room for storage behind the seat as it is... With this setup I can still use that area for tools/oil/the occasional bag on a road trip

Here's how it looks all back together. And like I said, you cannot even see the amp... So would be thieves don't even know it's there...




And a picture of the power-supply (blue wire) tied in at the junction box

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

Doing some maintenance so I took some pictures:

(Yes, my driver seat needs some major love! You can see and feel the metal poking you)


Just mocking it up, but that looks like a really nice spot for the airbag controller! I'll get to that in the next few months...probably

 

[ORVietVet]

Doing some maintenance so I took some pictures:

(Yes, my driver seat needs some major love! You can see and feel the metal poking you)
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Just mocking it up, but that looks like a really nice spot for the airbag controller! I'll get to that in the next few months...probably
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Seat metal poking my leg would get addressed asap. Would drive me crazy. The way my big ass gets in and out, would hurt myself every time.

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

And some of the under-hood mods! I totally forgot to mention two things earlier in this thread
-I'm running coils from a newer truck (2018-ish I think). I was experiencing a strange misfire on one bank and the coil harness looked suspect on that side. These coils are bolt on, plug and play... Just make sure to use plug wires from the same era vehicle you pulled the coils from.
-I am running an airaid airbox with DRY filter! The stock airbox had cracked and was no longer sealing on all 4 corners. I only noticed it because I was changing the filter. If I remember correctly, one of the ears where the screws attach snapped off. Wish I had a picture, I just recently threw it out with a bunch of other junk.

Also, a picture of the stainless Kooks headers and flexible oil-dipstick (I think its a Procar, but its' been to long to recall)

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

Seat metal poking my leg would get addressed asap. Would drive me crazy. The way my big ass gets in and out, would hurt myself every time.

I need to get after that... but its one of those things that just keeps getting pushed off. My big ass and jeans have polished the metal smooth over the last few years

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

Mission for today- driveline (again)
Would you believe this slip yoke and ujoints are only about 4 months old? This slip yoke is junk, it is now doing the common clunk/bump when stopping. I've got a AAM 1350 yoke going in. The real problem is the aftermarket 3R Moog joint is moving when installed in the pinion yoke. Not sure if that is wear related, or just a poor part. Regardless, the pinion seal is seeping, so perfect time to swap that to 1350 too! SKF seals and ujoints going in, with the conversion 447 for now. When They wear out and I'm closer to home I'll have a driveshaft shop rebuild the driveshaft for 1350s.

 

[Cadillacmak]

The Memphis amp is nothing special, but it is plenty loud for a single cab... I listen to a lot of grunge and old rock, so I don't really care for that teeth rattling base.

I agree, just need to hear all the sounds not thump thump, especially if your listening to 70s rock. It was actually music and there is a ton to hear. I need to do more on our suburban as I hate the sound quality.

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

I agree, just need to hear all the sounds not thump thump, especially if your listening to 70s rock. It was actually music and there is a ton to hear. I need to do more on our suburban as I hate the sound quality.

Could not agree more! The highs, midrange, and people actually singing with talented voices... to each their own though

Let me see if I can find the technical name of it, but Alpine makes an "inline" amplifier that works pretty good for how little effort it is. That with some speakers is a huge improvement over stock. It plugs into the audio harness and then the head-unit plugs directly into it. I have one I've plopped into and out of about 3 different cars now. That is my go-to for cars I don't think I will keep.

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

Currently fighting with the rear transfer-case output seal not wanting to go back in. Building a seal installer out of 2" PVC pipe, and then gonna put it in its' home!

 

[ORVietVet]

Wow! That slip yoke looks like years old. Salt on roads in Spokane?

 

[ORVietVet]

AZ loans seal drivers. Or is the spline in the way?

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

Wow! That slip yoke looks like years old. Salt on roads in Spokane?

Salty mid-west roads. My wife is finishing up her degree in South Dakota, so I took a contract to work here for a year. It is unbelieviable how hard it has been on our old vehicles.

AZ loans seal drivers. Or is the spline in the way?

I have a seal driver set, but I can't use it here. Output shaft is in the way, and soft taps around the outer edge weren't working either.

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

Success!

This is some quality jerry-rigg work, if I do say so myself. Seal is in and I included a few pictures of my new install tool. The grooves in the coupler held the seal in place a bit, almost like it was made for this...

 

[ORVietVet]

Success!

This is some quality jerry-rigg work, if I do say so myself. Seal is in and I included a few pictures of my new install tool. The grooves in the coupler held the seal in place a bit, almost like it was made for this...
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Very nice indeed. Keep that one in the toolbox. Make sure to lube that seal lip liberally on the inside lip.

I have used just about any type of grease but have recently, last 6 months, have started using this and a brush and I like it better than other stuff I have used.

Amazon.com

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

Random photos from working under the truck today

New 1350 yoke installed. This one uses the old style(pre/early 90s) pinion seal


Comparison of slip-yokes:
Top to bottom
-Current aftermarket 3r yoke (I think they sent me a TH400 yoke, the splines don't go all the way to the end like the others)
-OEM GM yoke (tangent, but who ever though the injectable plastic was a good idea? Probably my least favorite GM idea)
-AAM 1350 yoke. Solid piece, the 93 suburban got one of these with the 9.5 14 bolt


Some pictures of the back section of my exhaust setup. I was already laying under it so I figured I would snap a couple. It is dumped right after the muffler, in front of the rear-axle.

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

Very nice indeed. Keep that one in the toolbox. Make sure to lube that seal lip liberally on the inside lip.

I have used just about any type of grease but have recently, last 6 months, have started using this and a brush and I like it better than other stuff I have used.

Amazon.com

Thank you! This one is definitely going in the "random special tools" drawer.

I really like the look of that, I think I'll need to order up some of that goo! Since I won't have it for assembly tomorrow, would you use general purpose red grease or motor oil? This transfer case calls for 5w30, so I'm going to keep using it. I have heard others recommending using the fluid that will be used in service to also initially lube the seal, so I am just curious. I have always used grease, but I am open to adapting my process.

Oh, I also have finally found a good use for Royal Purple... I am going to fill the transfer-case with RP, and the purple dye should help me identify a leak from that source (like the red dye in ATF).

 

[ORVietVet]

Thank you! This one is definitely going in the "random special tools" drawer.

I really like the look of that, I think I'll need to order up some of that goo! Since I won't have it for assembly tomorrow, would you use general purpose red grease or motor oil? This transfer case calls for 5w30, so I'm going to keep using it. I have heard others recommending using the fluid that will be used in service to also initially lube the seal, so I am just curious. I have always used grease, but I am open to adapting my process.

Oh, I also have finally found a good use for Royal Purple... I am going to fill the transfer-case with RP, and the purple dye should help me identify a leak from that source (like the red dye in ATF).

IMO, use the red grease. Slap it on the lip of seal, all around, and a very thin film of the red on the slip yoke tube, on the splines and on the outer surface. Also on the splines of output shaft.

 

[INW-Iron-Steel]

IMO, use the red grease. Slap it on the lip of seal, all around, and a very thin film of the red on the slip yoke tube, on the splines and on the outer surface. Also on the splines of output shaft.

Sounds good, don't mess with what works huh? Grease, grease, and more grease is my way too! I already pre-lubed the yoke and output shaft to make sure they were a good fit. I cleaned the output shaft again as I got some PCV trimmings on it... time for more grease!