A/C causing hesitation

bigcountry78

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I've noticed this year that whenever I turn the AC on it causes the truck to kind of stumble on acceleration. Its notbad by any means, but I notice it. I've read that there is an idle control sensor that could be causing it but I've never dealt with one before. I've just been leaving the air off but since I've decided to run this truck into the ground I'd like to fix this. If I turn the air off the trick runs perfectly, but turn the air on and the hesitation, or surging I guess, starts immediately. I just feel like the air is adding more strain to the engine than it should be. Any suggestions? Truck has a 5.3 with 175k, with new plugs and wires, throttle body and MAF cleaning at around 155k. Thanks.
 
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I've noticed this year that whenever I turn the AC on it causes the truck to kind of stumble on acceleration. Its notbad by any means, but I notice it. I've read that there is an idle control sensor that could be causing it but I've never dealt with one before. I've just been leaving the air off but since I've decided to run this truck into the ground I'd like to fix this. If I turn the air off the trick runs perfectly, but turn the air on and the hesitation, or surging I guess, starts immediately. I just feel like the air is adding more strain to the engine than it should be. Any suggestions? Truck has a 5.3 with 175k, with new plugs and wires, throttle body and MAF cleaning at around 155k. Thanks.

My father is 78 years old and was a crew chief for the Blue Angels back in the 1950's and was certified to work on Airframes and Power Plants.
My dad's favorite automobile was a 1955 Chevrolet Bel Air.
I have to explain to my dad that they do not make a '55 Chevy, nor can you work on new vehicles without a computer diagnostic tool and some special skills - not acquired with his 1000 piece Craftsman tool set.
It would behoove you to go to a garage or a GM garage and have the problem diagnosed professionally.
It sounds to me as if you have tried the normal cures for most internal combustion engines - naturally aspired, but failed to grasp the concept of computer control.

Regardless which computer controls the engine, you have either a software issue or a hardware issue.
A bad sensor - yes, maybe something inside of the computer is toggled when the sensor says - the air-conditioning is now on, we need to increase the idle, and we need to change the air / fuel ratio - add a little more power, and we need to advance or retard the timing.
Could it be a throttle position sensor, or a MAP sensor, or a knock sensor or a crank sensor - who knows.
I can physically see just as far into your motor as you can!
 

bigcountry78

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I've thought about that but the change is so minimal, that someone that doesn't drive the truck everyday probably wouldn't even notice it, and there are no lights on so I doubt its throwing any codes. I'm with your dad on this one, I'd rather open my own toolbox and fix than take it somewhere. That's why I love my 78 lol.
 
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A friend of mine ( Andy ) was a service manager at a GM garage for many years.
Andy started out as a flat rate mechanic.
Andy now teaches Vo-Tech kids how to repair automobiles.
When a young person goes to work in a GM garage, more times then not, if the computer shows no codes, they are befuddled and they run back to the lead mechanic to ask for advice.
We all know that the piston has to go up and down and the valves has to go up and down in time with the pistons in order for the engine to run.
If we introduce spark at the prime moment and we introduce fuel at the prime moment, we will get the maximum amount of power out of the stroke of the engine. Basic knowledge tells us that we need compression, spark, ignition, intake and also a period where there is a dead cylinder - where it performs no work. If all of these events are in time when the compressor is turned off, then it stands to reason that there should be no difference in performance after the compressor is turned on, with the exception of the amount of power that the compressor robs from the engine.

Unfortunately with active fuel management, the events that takes place in the cylinder are not exactly the same for all engines and all situations.
Even things like power options on the vehicle causes the manufacturer to put a computer with a different tune into the vehicle - hence the computers are not interchangeable. 99% of the time, the computer is not a fault.
This leaves upstream and downstream oxygen sensors, crank and camshaft position sensors, knock sensors, throttle position sensors, MAP sensors and a host of other things that can fail, at least to the point of where they do not perform within factory specifications.

Yes, you can use a VOM meter on most, while they are in use - a warm engine, running at speed, but if you disconnect the sensor, it is going to throw a code and put the PCM into the limp mode.

Most good scan tools, even the Snap On analyzers, will do a road test where it will record a period of operation that a trained technician can use to diagnose your problem. If you do not wish to spend the money to have this problem diagnosed, then all you are doing is pizzing in the wind.

The Tech II tool GM uses gives the exact same information.
With the mileage stated, you are going to continue to have more problems, since most problems do not go away on their own.
Might I suggest that you upgrade to a newer model vehicle with no obvious problems.. Maybe the sticker shock of a newer vehicle will shock you back to reality.
 

bigcountry78

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Yea not everyone here can afford to run out and buy a new 40k vehicle. I like having a truck that's paid for and I'm not worried about a scratch or two. I'd rather spend 5k to repair my truck than to buy a new one and have to pay higher insurance, taxes and whatnot. Plus I'm not exactly thrilled with the idea of active fuel management.
 

2003tahoe

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some people may like their car that they have atm and also i was thinking about buying a new camaro when i get out of the academy and realized why spend 45k on a camaro i want when i can get a rcsb silverado and spend less than that and make it faster than a camaro and built for me
 

silverado13

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some people may like their car that they have atm and also i was thinking about buying a new camaro when i get out of the academy and realized why spend 45k on a camaro i want when i can get a rcsb silverado and spend less than that and make it faster than a camaro and built for me

when i went to the races this year i test drove a fully loaded 2014 silverado, at a price tag of 55,000, it surely was nice
 

bigcountry78

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Exactly why I want to keep my truck. And I like to fix things myself, which is why I don't want to take my truck to the dealer like this guy recommends in every other post. He must be a dealer mechanic.
 

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