Places to buy new hardware

zachammer85

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Where do you all get new nuts, bolts, washers, etc for your suspension and steering parts? Aside from ball joints and tie rods, most of the connectors on my suspension are a bit old and wore out or not even the right bolt in some cases due to having to use what was available after taking off the lift kit. I'm sure they'll be fine short term but would like to replace everything eventually with brand new parts as i plan to use this to tow some stuff and haul family around from time to time.
 

stutaeng

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Probably junkyard for replacing with OEM?

Or maybe car-part.com or ebay?

Most everything is metric, so your typical big box orange boxes have limited metric stuff.

I have bought transmission pan metric bolts from the old local mom-n-pop hardware store near me though.

For generic larger bolts, try mcmaster-carr.com. just get a bolt size/thread guage or a nut to match the threads.
 

JorgeS

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Most fasteners are pretty standard, but if you buy from a hardware store, or from an on-line place, make sure you match the grade.
In case you're not familiar with grades, metric fasteners have a stamping on the head (i.e.: 8.8, 10.9, etc). These indicate the strength of the fastener.
It's usually OK to replace with one that has a higher number stamped (replace an 8.8 with a 10.9), but never replace with a lower number; this can be critical on certain locations, like suspension.
 

AuroraGirl

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Most fasteners are pretty standard, but if you buy from a hardware store, or from an on-line place, make sure you match the grade.
In case you're not familiar with grades, metric fasteners have a stamping on the head (i.e.: 8.8, 10.9, etc). These indicate the strength of the fastener.
It's usually OK to replace with one that has a higher number stamped (replace an 8.8 with a 10.9), but never replace with a lower number; this can be critical on certain locations, like suspension.
i use 12.9 often since i source from menards a lot, and flanged head bolts or ones in the large size (m12, m14 etc) there tend to be in black phosphate coating vs cheap plating, and thats preferabnle to the cheap plating and non flange head ones. 12.9 hardness means cutting or drilling is a CHORE so buy one close to the length you need or use a bolt cutter to rough the size and have threaded nuts on it to back off to fix the thread and touch it up with a thread file

12.9 means its not as flexible of course because of the hardness ,but ive had no issues on my suspension/brakes/trailer hitch etc but I for sure would be mindful of things when gm says 9.8 vs 10.9 , because there may be a reason they wanted 9.8 or it may be just they only needed it that much but more wouldnt hurt. 8.8 would be like grade 5 for reference
9.8 , 10.9 are closest to grade 8, 10.9 has no equivalent that I know of
 

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