Stutaeng's 1999 Silverado

[stutaeng]

What am I missing? Is that an oversized/larger diameter spring?

No. When I rebuilt the front suspension (2 years ago+), or maybe after driving it a bit (IDK?), I heard a noise but didn't know what it was.

When I did the brake upgrade in the summer, I saw what was the problem. Not sure if I left the coil spring shifted to one side? I remember installing some Dorman coil spring isolators i got. I don't remember having other options on that? Stock coil spring.

 

[stutaeng]

Ok, the binding noise is gone. That was definitely annoying...

 

[stutaeng]

No real updates. Have been driving it to a local-ish job in Waxahachie.

Had a bit of of delayed crank and it was just loose battery posts. No big deal.

Did an oil change because light showed up yesterday. Otherwise the little 5.3 and the transmission just purr...in spite of how many unknown miles on them. Freaking amazing!

I do still have that fluttering highway noise on the windshield which is annoying AF. I got my son on the driver's seat and blew air with my chintzy rioby leaf blower but he couldn't perceive the sound with me blowingaroundthe engine bay and door... I placed clear packing tape on the windshield to try to rule that out...

 

[4silverado]

Mine has an issue with the windshield seal. As I’m driving, I can press on the inside of the windshield, along the top edge, and hear a tone difference in the wind noise. I knew I had a leak, just didn’t know how bad it was.

 

[stutaeng]

Mine has an issue with the windshield seal. As I’m driving, I can press on the inside of the windshield, along the top edge, and hear a tone difference in the wind noise. I knew I had a leak, just didn’t know how bad it was.

Interesting. Windshield seal on the interior? Mine is on the passenger side, somewhere near the top.

The strange thing is I got my windshield replaced last year, and no change. And that was the second windshield replacement actually.

I was thinking maybe buying a GoPro camera knock-off from Amazon and place it in the suspecting area to see I can pinpoint the noise.

 

[stutaeng]

Well, I'm happy to say that the windshield fluttering noise is GONE!

I'll probably run a small bead of black rtv under it?

 

[stutaeng]

Here's what I did temporarily.

I compared that trim piece with my 06 Suburban and that one "seems" more rigid. I'm guessing maybe they revised it?

 

[ORVietVet]

This may have happened to my 2005 Tahoe Z71, before I bought it. It has a very thin bead of clear RTV, on both sides and across the top. It was that way when I bought it approx 5 years ago. Has never caused a problem and has never leaked.

 

[stutaeng]

Probably no paint experts here, but I'll ask anyways:

I'm coming up with a repaint schedule or procedure for this this truck. One of the things that's kinda ambigous watching the paint/body work YT channels I watch is: production settings they'll go with 2k urethane primer/sealer/surfacers vs "restoration" they almost always use epoxy. Restoration is the guys doing classics, rotisserie/body off frame, and that stuff. The stuff you watch were they start stripping a classic and find like 4 coats of paint, 3 eras of bondo and $hit like that, haha. Whereas production is your daily drivers or newer vehicles getting repainted due to collision or just scrapes/scuffs.

This is truck is neither and there's nothing that says you can't use both products. The epoxy undoubtedly offers better rust protection, but I read it's not really sand-able. I've only used epoxies for woodworking, have never sprayed automotive 2k epoxy, so IDK?

Anyways, here are some options I've come up with. We don't deal with really any rust down here, but since I'm doing the work myself (with the help of my 14 year son), it's basically just a bit more materials cost. And don't mind taking the plunge on the learning curve. Body work will be minimal, mostly just a bit of door dings, scuffs and a bit of hail dents. No welding, cutting/patching.

Anyways, here's what I have if anyone wants to critique or offer advice:




I'll probably use the Summit Racing 2k epoxy (Summit is local to me). My 2k primer is Upol UP2253 product, and Kapci high solids clear with the basecoat mixed by my local auto paint store to match my RPO code, which I have used before with good results. I painted the hood and roof of my 04 project suburban with 2k sealer, basecoat and 2k clearcoat, and that turned out fine. But i'm trying to step my game here

I found this article useful for a visual guide if anyone is interested: https://help.summitracing.com/knowledgebase/article/SR-05353/en-us

 

[Cadillacmak]

Probably no paint experts here, but I'll ask anyways:

I'm coming up with a repaint schedule or procedure for this this truck. One of the things that's kinda ambigous watching the paint/body work YT channels I watch is: production settings they'll go with 2k urethane primer/sealer/surfacers vs "restoration" they almost always use epoxy. Restoration is the guys doing classics, rotisserie/body off frame, and that stuff. The stuff you watch were they start stripping a classic and find like 4 coats of paint, 3 eras of bondo and $hit like that, haha. Whereas production is your daily drivers or newer vehicles getting repainted due to collision or just scrapes/scuffs.

This is truck is neither and there's nothing that says you can't use both products. The epoxy undoubtedly offers better rust protection, but I read it's not really sand-able. I've only used epoxies for woodworking, have never sprayed automotive 2k epoxy, so IDK?

Anyways, here are some options I've come up with. We don't deal with really any rust down here, but since I'm doing the work myself (with the help of my 14 year son), it's basically just a bit more materials cost. And don't mind taking the plunge on the learning curve. Body work will be minimal, mostly just a bit of door dings, scuffs and a bit of hail dents. No welding, cutting/patching.

Anyways, here's what I have if anyone wants to critique or offer advice:
View attachment 5237
View attachment 5238
View attachment 5239

I'll probably use the Summit Racing 2k epoxy (Summit is local to me). My 2k primer is Upol UP2253 product, and Kapci high solids clear with the basecoat mixed by my local auto paint store to match my RPO code, which I have used before with good results. I painted the hood and roof of my 04 project suburban with 2k sealer, basecoat and 2k clearcoat, and that turned out fine. But i'm trying to step my game here

I found this article useful for a visual guide if anyone is interested: https://help.summitracing.com/knowledgebase/article/SR-05353/en-us

Not an expert, but done a bit of this if you want to look though the 55 build post on here. I would not use 80 grit, 120 and a DA sander. And we also only block wet sand once and with 600.

 

[stutaeng]

Not an expert, but done a bit of this if you want to look though the 55 build post on here. I would not use 80 grit, 120 and a DA sander. And we also only block wet sand once and with 600.

Thanks. I will look through your 55 build thread.

You are saying DON'T use #80, #120 and a DA? Is that for the paint removal or body filler steps?

Point taken on only using #600 block sanding. That's what I did on my 04 Suburban hood (dry though) before basecoat and it turned out fine.

And I should have mentioned this truck has the original paint. No rust or previous repairs to the body.

 

[Cadillacmak]

Thanks. I will look through your 55 build thread.

You are saying DON'T use #80, #120 and a DA? Is that for the paint removal or body filler steps?

Point taken on only using #600 block sanding. That's what I did on my 04 Suburban hood (dry though) before basecoat and it turned out fine.

And I should have mentioned this truck has the original paint. No rust or previous repairs to the body.

Sanding scratches are really hard to remove and will pop on final paint. 120-180 with a DA sander will help prevent that. 80 can leave scratches behind that that you dont see until the final clear coat. It works for us, if your method works good do it, you might have us beat on the learning curve.

 

[stutaeng]

No truck "update". I'm working on a large home renovation project and using the truck for hauling materials: some misc. roofing materials (got 38 squares of shingles items delivered), 6' patio door, 6' window, self leveling compound, trim, tools and old flooring haul off...

Old girl just keeps on truckin'
.

 

[AuroraGirl]

No truck "update". I'm working on a large home renovation project and using the truck for hauling materials: some misc. roofing materials (got 38 squares of shingles items delivered), 6' patio door, 6' window, self leveling compound, trim, tools and old flooring haul off...

Old girl just keeps on truckin'
View attachment 5323.
View attachment 5322
View attachment 5321

Who manufactured that patio door? If it’s mastercraft, be warned.

 

[stutaeng]

Finally did that leveling job and bought a pallet of flooring, and did a landfill trip.

I applied a tiny bit of black rtv to the windshield trim, applied to masking tape to hold it in place and let it cure. Confirmed fluttering noise is gone.

And I washed the old truck. I'm at like 273k now...

 

[stutaeng]

 

[stutaeng]

 

[stutaeng]

Ah, dang it! What happened to my message?!

Edit:

Well, here's the story: I swapped these pieces back when I deleted my console (thinking that they were different console vs non-console.) The replacement piece has a fold-down cupholder and have some scuffs on the globe box.

I pulled out my original parts to swap the glovebox door so that my vin and whatever RPOs still apply and I noticed everything looks identical. My original has the same holes where the replacement has holes for the fold down cupholder.

Since my originals are in better condition, I'm gonna try painting those instead, along with the cupholder cover. That way it will match my bezel as well.

 

[stutaeng]

I finally bought some new tires: Cooper A/Ts something.

I've noticed I have a bit of coolant dripping over the last few days near the front. I finally checked last night with an inspection mirror and I'm pretty sure it's my water pump. This is the water pump that originally came with my swapped 5.3, so it doesn't owe me a dime. So, I ordered a new Gates unit one from RA...

 

[ORVietVet]

I finally bought some new tires: Cooper A/Ts something.

I've noticed I have a bit of coolant dripping over the last few days near the front. I finally checked last night with an inspection mirror and I'm pretty sure it's my water pump. This is the water pump that originally came with my swapped 5.3, so it doesn't owe me a dime. So, I ordered a new Gates unit one from RA...View attachment 5865

Common leak with age. Do the thermostat, too.

If belt(s) and idler/tensioners are old, do them.