Stutaeng's 1999 Silverado
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stutaeng
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I reinstalled my original kickpanel and glovebox/trim. They must be the same on these earlier years because my original trim was for a console (that I deleted) and it still worked with this cupholder.
Also, the SEM spray bomb is pretty darn close to the original color.
I did have to drill out the glovebox door, so that I could paint everything like factory. But just reinstalled it with new screws and you wouldn't notice it.
Also, the SEM spray bomb is pretty darn close to the original color.
I did have to drill out the glovebox door, so that I could paint everything like factory. But just reinstalled it with new screws and you wouldn't notice it.
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stutaeng
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Removed and replaced the old water pump. Definitely was leaking thru that weep hole.
I didn't see on my maintenance log where the belt and tensioner have been replaced (but I did replace the AC belt and tensioner previously), so I'll order new ones later. Tomorrow I'll stop by and buy some Dexcool to replace.
It took me about 45 minutes to do the job. I didn't know this, but i had installed sealant on the water pump bolts on this truck when I swapped the engine. You don't have to do that because, unlike the previous generation engines, on the LS the water pump bolts are blind holes. All you need is the gaskets (no sealant on those either as I was doing before.)
I spent about 10 minutes cleaning the old thermostat sealant on the water pump bolts. SMH
I didn't see on my maintenance log where the belt and tensioner have been replaced (but I did replace the AC belt and tensioner previously), so I'll order new ones later. Tomorrow I'll stop by and buy some Dexcool to replace.
It took me about 45 minutes to do the job. I didn't know this, but i had installed sealant on the water pump bolts on this truck when I swapped the engine. You don't have to do that because, unlike the previous generation engines, on the LS the water pump bolts are blind holes. All you need is the gaskets (no sealant on those either as I was doing before.)
I spent about 10 minutes cleaning the old thermostat sealant on the water pump bolts. SMH
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AuroraGirl
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i recommend using blue loctite or just high temp sealant anyway for the bolts. although not likely to end up like the water pump bolts on a Small block ford, its good idea to keep the threads from corroding in there so you dont end up needing a super high torque value or end up with a ruined fastener etc.
stutaeng
Well-Known Member
I removed the door molding last weekend which is kinda a PIA. Today I removed the cab trim logo. One side had melted completely over the kast 2 years, and the other was fine. I have to remove all trim anyway to repaint it.
This week I noticed a faint kinda grinding noise when coming to a complete stop, on the driver's side (maybe rear?). I checked the front 2019 brakes and they looked great. Then I removed the rear and my pads are pretty much toast...I need to either replace the rear pads or finally try to upgrade the rear axle I've been planning on swapping forever...
This week I noticed a faint kinda grinding noise when coming to a complete stop, on the driver's side (maybe rear?). I checked the front 2019 brakes and they looked great. Then I removed the rear and my pads are pretty much toast...I need to either replace the rear pads or finally try to upgrade the rear axle I've been planning on swapping forever...
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stutaeng
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stutaeng
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2019 front brakes after 10k miles+...looks great!
stutaeng
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"Well, there's your problem lady!"
Lol
Rockauto.com factory closeout rotors are actually AC Delco. And I bought some $8 pads...
My hubs are bright and shiny...not even the slightest rust. Pretty impressive.
Lol
Rockauto.com factory closeout rotors are actually AC Delco. And I bought some $8 pads...
My hubs are bright and shiny...not even the slightest rust. Pretty impressive.
stutaeng
Well-Known Member
Pretty IMPRESSIVED with the braking power of this truck. Hauled about 1300 lbs of scrap steel of a parted out OBS K3500.Stopping was never a concern.
My second load is even heavier here, maybe 1600 lbs? The first photo is deceptive because the grade is inclined. Second photo shows the real story...poor truck...
I'm definitely gonna buy a 2500HD in the future 'cause I'm always hauling $hit. But for today, this will do. Another unsung GMT800 gets the job done! Gobless!
My second load is even heavier here, maybe 1600 lbs? The first photo is deceptive because the grade is inclined. Second photo shows the real story...poor truck...
I'm definitely gonna buy a 2500HD in the future 'cause I'm always hauling $hit. But for today, this will do. Another unsung GMT800 gets the job done! Gobless!
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99Sierra2500
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Great looking truck, I love the gold.
stutaeng
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Thanks!
Was planning on repainting it because I'm having clearcoat failure. Until the last few weeks, I wasn't concerned about the color, but recently read that gold metallic is the MOST difficult to paint of all colors.
I repainted a door on my 06 suburban, which is a silver color. Turned out okay, but was using a 1.7mm gun. Apparently, silvers are a also very challenging to get right a and color match. Aside from the bad clearcoat texture, I can't tell the color difference on the door. So at least that gives me some confidence. Not sure if that's real confidence or perceived. Lol
99Sierra2500
Well-Known Member
My squarebody was gold and white, and my wife called it goldie. I think paint has to be really bad redone before it looks it, because the factory didn't do concourse paint.
stutaeng
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Well, driving these GMT800s sometimes gets "boring" as far as having mechanical issues, breakdown and stuff...(especially if you have a Chysler in the stable...read further down.)
I had a small, but noticeable coolant leak on my Silverado after the recent water pump replacement. I finally crawled underneath today and saw some coolant dripping, and determined it was from the water pump heater hose. Some stains underneath I think were from the previous pump leaking. Will have to clean those off later.
I put my inspection mirror right underneath that holse as sort of a catch can/witness device and pinpointed it to the heater hose going into the water pump. After a few minutes, there was coolant on the inspection mirror.
I just tightened up the hose clamp and the leak stopped.
Damn GMT800s are TOO easy to keep running...
I had a small, but noticeable coolant leak on my Silverado after the recent water pump replacement. I finally crawled underneath today and saw some coolant dripping, and determined it was from the water pump heater hose. Some stains underneath I think were from the previous pump leaking. Will have to clean those off later.
I put my inspection mirror right underneath that holse as sort of a catch can/witness device and pinpointed it to the heater hose going into the water pump. After a few minutes, there was coolant on the inspection mirror.
I just tightened up the hose clamp and the leak stopped.
Damn GMT800s are TOO easy to keep running...
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stutaeng
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OTOH, my wife casually said our 2013 T&C minivan was overheating the other day.
I decided to drive it to work, and it was kinda warm on the morning commute. On the way back in traffic, it heated up, and got stranded overheating on the side of the express lane. Had to get it towed home. I knew the oil cooler on the 3.6 had been leaking and had bought the Dorman aluminum replacement a few weeks before, which I replaced over the weekend. It seemed like the oil cooler passage seals blew out, I just wasn't sure if that was a secondary "effect" from the overheating, or the original issue?
I just fired it up, and it's still overheating. Now I'm thinking it's a headgasket issue!
In Park, it will run at halfway point in the temperature. But in Drive with the foot on the brake (and a bit of acceleration), it'll climb to 3/4 mark before the AC stops blowing cold air, then I have to shift back to Park.
I confirmed the heater blows hot air when selected inside the cabin. The radiator hose feels hot and firm. That doesn't seem like either thermostat or water pump to me?
I'll have to ask my wife more questions about overheating, but you know women don't really pay much attention to guages...SMH
@ORVietVet any suggestions?
I decided to drive it to work, and it was kinda warm on the morning commute. On the way back in traffic, it heated up, and got stranded overheating on the side of the express lane. Had to get it towed home. I knew the oil cooler on the 3.6 had been leaking and had bought the Dorman aluminum replacement a few weeks before, which I replaced over the weekend. It seemed like the oil cooler passage seals blew out, I just wasn't sure if that was a secondary "effect" from the overheating, or the original issue?
I just fired it up, and it's still overheating. Now I'm thinking it's a headgasket issue!
In Park, it will run at halfway point in the temperature. But in Drive with the foot on the brake (and a bit of acceleration), it'll climb to 3/4 mark before the AC stops blowing cold air, then I have to shift back to Park.
I confirmed the heater blows hot air when selected inside the cabin. The radiator hose feels hot and firm. That doesn't seem like either thermostat or water pump to me?
I'll have to ask my wife more questions about overheating, but you know women don't really pay much attention to guages...SMH
@ORVietVet any suggestions?
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"my wife casually said our 2013 T&C minivan was overheating the other day."
Overheated once or numerous times? Kept driving when did overheat? If only once and you overheated as well, that ain't good. Compression test and post results. Pics of the plugs in cylinder order. Make sure to have all plugs out before the compression test and a battery charger on the battery during the test. You want the same cranking rhythm through the whole test. You can get a chemical test kit at the parts store to check for hydrocarbons in the coolant. A good top bottom, side to side and front to back inspection. Pressure test cooling system. Be really great if you had a bore scope.
Post all pics and test results here.
Plus, that bad oil cooler typically leaks oil and not coolant.
Overheated once or numerous times? Kept driving when did overheat? If only once and you overheated as well, that ain't good. Compression test and post results. Pics of the plugs in cylinder order. Make sure to have all plugs out before the compression test and a battery charger on the battery during the test. You want the same cranking rhythm through the whole test. You can get a chemical test kit at the parts store to check for hydrocarbons in the coolant. A good top bottom, side to side and front to back inspection. Pressure test cooling system. Be really great if you had a bore scope.
Post all pics and test results here.
Plus, that bad oil cooler typically leaks oil and not coolant.
stutaeng
Well-Known Member
Thank you, Sir!
Well, I did replace the spark plugs (I had bought them with the scheduled Dorman oil cooler) while I was replacing the cooler.
Here's a photo of the spark plugs. They all looked "normal" to my eyes.
I'd rented a radiator pressure tester from O'Reillys (even the other adapter as another tool they offer), but none of them fit the minivan radiator. So I had to return it.
No telling on the overheating. I'll have to ask my wife. I want to say she's said 3/4 mark. But the day that I drove it and got stranded, it definitely got into the red mark and chimes and CEL came on.
I realize I may be looking at a new engine. Kinda sucks 'cause it just turned like 102k, but it is what it is...
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stutaeng
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Front engine of towards the left, and looks like one spark plug electrode is not really showing...doh!
stutaeng
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I should add that the engine runs smooth. No misfires or misses.
I did delete some transmission codes (torque converter slip, which I also have to fix soon)with HP Tuners, and an oil pressure out of range issue, which was resolved with a new pressure sender on the oil cooler I had also bought because of this issue...
Otherwise, no engine codes.
I did delete some transmission codes (torque converter slip, which I also have to fix soon)with HP Tuners, and an oil pressure out of range issue, which was resolved with a new pressure sender on the oil cooler I had also bought because of this issue...
Otherwise, no engine codes.
In the first pick the right bottom and middle have a white crusty look, that I don't see on the others. I could be wrong but might be coolant burn. I doubt it needs an engine. More than likely needs head gaskets, surface heads, valve seals and grind the valves. I say again, needs a chemical test from the parts store. Needs a compression test. See videos for the correct steps. Do not look at just one video for each test. Needs the cooling system pressure test, don't care where the tester comes from. take the radiator cap or coolant reservoir cap with you to match up the correct adaptor to test correctly. Look at a video for that as well.
Or, give up and maybe waste money on a new engine. Requires correct testing first. If you can get your hands on a borescope and see coolant on the top of pistons, the head gaskets are needed. may have a cracked head, too. You could install the plugs, start it and let run for 3-5 minutes. Pull plugs and then watch all cylinders where the plugs were installed att and have someone turn the engine over and see if water/coolant spits out. That would be too easy but could work.
Or, give up and maybe waste money on a new engine. Requires correct testing first. If you can get your hands on a borescope and see coolant on the top of pistons, the head gaskets are needed. may have a cracked head, too. You could install the plugs, start it and let run for 3-5 minutes. Pull plugs and then watch all cylinders where the plugs were installed att and have someone turn the engine over and see if water/coolant spits out. That would be too easy but could work.
