Miklo's 2001 Silverado 2500HD Build Thread

[Mikloangelo]

I have introduced myself in the intro section already, but for the sake of starting a fresh thread to show my truck's progress.

Intro for Myself: Currently living in NE Texas. Prior aircraft mechanic turned to engineer and Navy Veteran. I still love working with my hands any chance I get, whether it's and airplane, car, or a toy.

Intro for the truck: 2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 4x4 6.0L. The prior owner ran into the back of my daughter (she's okay), on the way to sell his truck. He offered to pay cash for the damage, and I got him to include the truck. The truck looks like it hasn't be well maintained for at least 10 years. It looks as if it was used on a road crew due to the asphalt/rock all over the front end and frame and fenders. It's a beater shitbox for sure. I was looking for a hunting truck and this fit the bill. Over the last several months i slowly worked on it here and there and then decided this will be my project truck to fix up to its former glory.

 

[Cadillacmak]

I am jealous! I never find a truck with a paint color I like, I like that one.

 

[Mikloangelo]

The truck came with a service 4WD light and ABS light for free. So I decided to tackle the ABS sensors first and swap over the steel wheels to the stock Aluminum ones while doing so. I replaced the wheel sensors and saw the brakes could be could be changed on the front. It had one decent front brake and the other was pretty low. But figured I could ride it for a bit longer. While changing the rear wheels I found both rear rotors had been ground so far down the rotor separated from the hub and was sandwiched between the calipers allowing the rear hubs to spin freely. No wonder this dude could stop when he hit my daughter. Anyways went ahead brought new rear rotors and brake pads for all four wheels. I also took off the brake control module and reflowed the solder on some electrical points. There are plenty of videos on YouTube that show how to do this, as it's a common issue for the ABS light. I then finished up the wheel swap. I think it looks so much better.

 

[Mikloangelo]

I am jealous! I never find a truck with a paint color I like, I like that one.

Thanks. It wouldn't have been my first pick but it's the one that happen to hit my daughter's car. But the color has grown on my especially since it isn't as common of a color.

 

[Mikloangelo]

I then tried to tackle the 4WD light. I ordered the transfer case switch fir it since that's a common issue. When it came in, I went to install and found that someone had swapped out the electeonic transfercase to a manual 261 transfercase. Presumably to get the truck down the road since the old messed up. So I found a company on ebay that sells rebuilt 263 transfercases at a good rate and it comes with a year warranty. So I ordered it and decided to tackle my suspension and steering due to the trucks high mileage. I decided to do this because when I changed the brakes I found the wheel bearings were bad, so I might as well do the suspension too. So I bought all Moog parts. Inner and outer tierods, upper and lower control arms, idler arm, steering link, pitman arm, steering gearbox, and bilstein shocks.

 

[Mikloangelo]

Took the truck and got it aligned. And it drives pretty well now. The tires were the cheapest all terrain tire that Discount Tire had to offer. They ride pretty well and overall I'm satisfied. Without testing out the truck on any long-distance trip I drove 100 miles to east Texas and picked up my Tractor to take to my hunting lease another 75 miles away. The truck pulled pretty well for its age.
While I was mowing my lease I left the truck idling. Came back to the truck and found it was running hot. Apparently I have a bad fan clutch and was low on radiator fluid. So I topped it off and drove it home without issue. I figured I'll deal with it later.

 

[Mikloangelo]

The truck has no heat or AC, but I figured I could tough out the Texas "winter" and take the truck to the lease for the start of deer season. Bagged a nice buck opening weekend so it made the trip on the truck that much sweeter. After that my nephew offered to drive me to the lease since he comes with me and didn't want enjoy the Texas air with me with the windows down. So the truck sat around for a few months. Between hunting trips I found that the truck is leaking oil, steering fluid, and coolant.
I decided to tackle the steering fluid and replaced the seals in the brake booster to stop the leak from there. I went ahead and replaced some the lines that go from the booster to the steering gear box. I think the rear main seal is leaking the oil, but don't want to pull the engine. Mainly because I don't want to deal with the hassle. So i just top the oil off every other trip to the gas station. The coolant leak I think is coming from the radiator. Again I didn't want to deal with the hassle just yet, so I top that off once a week.

 

[stutaeng]

Awesome. Subscribed.

 

[Marky Dissod]

... tried to tackle the 4WD light. I ordered the transfer case switch fir it since that's a common issue.
When it came in, I went to install and found that someone had swapped out the electeonic transfercase to a manual 261 transfercase,
presumably to get the truck down the road since the old messed up.
So I found a company on ebay that sells rebuilt 263 transfercases at a good rate and it comes with a year warranty ...

If you need to keep it a secret, we'll understand, but it'd be nice to know the name of the company?

 

[Mikloangelo]

My daughter decided to hit a parked car for the second time in as many months. So i decided to humble her and make her drive my truck. It has no backup camera so it forces her to really go slow and watch her corners and just be extra cautious. Two weeks ago she tells me it has a check engine light, and I confirmed that the light flashes as soon as it starts up. The truck was idling like garbage as well. I pulled the codes and got a P0300 code. I think I read somewhere that it could be the intake manifold gasket or vacuum leaks. That's when the domino's fell for me.
I've been holding off of quite a few small and big issues on the truck. Now that it's down for the count, my -tism kicked in and I'm in full on war mode. Time to start fixing old and new issues.

 

[Mikloangelo]

If you need to keep it a secret, we'll understand, but it'd be nice to know the name of the company?

Here is the ebay listing.

263 HD gm transfer case 01-07 Chevy trucks, Updated New Rear Aluminum Case Half. | eBay

263 HD Transfer case. New friction, all new seals. - GMC 6.0 engines, trucks with 4L80E.

ebay.us

Domestic Transfer Case Service
Forest Hill, Maryland
443-235-0446

They send it in a nice pack out case, and a return label to send your core in.

 

[Mikloangelo]

If you need to keep it a secret, we'll understand, but it'd be nice to know the name of the company?

Speaking of the transfer case. I did receive it. And installed it. Of course when I pulled the drive shafts, the u-joints needed to be replaced. I replaced those with Moog parts. I also replaced the slip yoke since the transfer case company offered to send a new one in case the old one was messed up, for an extra fee. Mine was good but I opted to replace it.
The small slip yoke on the shaft from the transmission to the transfer was rusted, so that made it very difficult to take the transfer case out. Once it was out I had to beat the shit out of the yoke and spray with PBlaster. It finally came off with about 45 min of persuasion. My neighbors were not too happy about the noise and cussing.
Anyways, fixed the u joints, cleaned up the slip yoke and grease it, and installed the new transfercase with the new transfercase switch.
4WD service light is off now, and it shifts to 4-wheel high and low just fine.
Test drove it to make sure I don't have any vibration from the u-joints. Good to go now

 

[stutaeng]

My daughter decided to hit a parked car for the second time in as many months. So i decided to humble her and make her drive my truck. It has no backup camera so it forces her to really go slow and watch her corners and just be extra cautious. Two weeks ago she tells me it has a check engine light, and I confirmed that the light flashes as soon as it starts up. The truck was idling like garbage as well. I pulled the codes and got a P0300 code. I think I read somewhere that it could be the intake manifold gasket or vacuum leaks. That's when the domino's fell for me.
I've been holding off of quite a few small and big issues on the truck. Now that it's down for the count, my -tism kicked in and I'm in full on war mode. Time to start fixing old and new issues.

That's a generic misfire code. Some basic scanner only give you that code, not the cylinder specific code where the last number is the offending cylinder.

Does your scanner give live data or misfire counts per cylinder?

With live data, you can easily determine if it's vacuum leak. Although not really likely for a vacuum leak to cause a misfire. A vacuum leak normally will throw lean codes, P0171/P0174 IIRC?

 

[Mikloangelo]

That's a generic misfire code. Some basic scanner only give you that code, not the cylinder specific code where the last number is the offending cylinder.

Does your scanner give live data or misfire counts per cylinder?

With live data, you can easily determine if it's vacuum leak. Although not really likely for a vacuum leak to cause a misfire. A vacuum leak normally will throw lean codes, P0171/P0174 IIRC?

I appreciate the info. Yeah I think after I decided to go full-ham on ordering parts I did see that it was a misfire code. But it didn't much matter by then, since *spoiler alert* I'm replacing all the coils, spark plugs, and wires along with new heads and lifters.

 

[Mikloangelo]

To give you folk some insight about how my brain works here's a run down if my thought process.

I got to replace the heater core, which involves removing the dash. So I might as replace all the blend door actuators and Will probably repaint the dash and trim with some SEM paint while I'm at it.
If I replace my heater core, I should go ahead and fix the AC. I don't know if it has a leak or if the compressor is bad, so I bought a vacuum pump and and entire new AC system.
Also if I'm replacing the heater core, I should address my coolant leak. Ordered new radiator, new hoses, new water pump.
If im replacing the radiator, i should go ahead and replace the radiator core support, since it has previous damage from a wreck, which caused my fan to wear into the fan shroud. So I ordered new fan shrouds, fan and fan clutch.
If im taking off the radiator core support, i should buy new headlights assy, and blinker light assy, sealight LEDs, and headlamp mounting brackets since they were also messed up due to a previous wreck.
If I'm taking off the water pump, I will have access to the timing chain and sprockets, the cam, oil pump, cam retainer plate, serpentine belt system with new tensioner and idler pulley. So i ordered Michigan Motorsports chain and sprockets, Texas Speed and performance Stage two cam, and Melling 10296 oil pump.
If I'm taking off the water pump, I should serpentine belt system with new tensioner and idler pulley and new steering pump, since its leaking.
If I am changing the cam, I should swap my heads to 799 heads and use Fel-Pro gaskets. New drivetrain components from BTR and Michigan motor sports.
Since im swapping heads I should change out the lifter. Ordered BTR LS7 lifters and trays, Along with new ARP bolts for the heads and headers, and gaskets for the headers and intake valve manifold.
If im taking the intake manifold out, i should delete the EGR valve and EVAP purge solenoid.
If im giving this pig some extra horsepower, and getting a tune, i should get new headers and exhaust. I have yet to buy these, but the time is coming.
Since I have the front clip ripped apart, i should replace the front bumper and grille. Which were also damaged in the wreck. Havent bought yet, but will when things start going back together.

I have never done any top-end work before on any vehicle, or any engine internals for that matter, but I'm confident i can do this. YouTube is incredibly helpful and beats trying to decipher a Haynes manual.

I hope everyone enjoyed reading that. This is how my mind works sometimes. Its a high-mileage truck, 284,000 miles, and many things just need to be replaced. But the performance stuff is more for smiles. My wife has been going crazy watching several boxes a day show up for the last two weeks.

 

[Mikloangelo]

Today I called in sick to work to hunt for some hog in the morning. Got home around noon, After a quick lunch i had about 2.5 hrs to kill. So I used the time to tear down the engine bay. I previously disconnected and drained the radiator. So that saved me a bit more time. I tore out the bumper, removed the headlights and blinkers, disconnected and moved headlight wiring harness to remove the radiator core support. Also got rid of the EGR valve. Then i removed the water pump accessory bracket, along with the alternator and steering pump bracket.
Tomorrow morning i plan to remove the intake manifold, coil mount, fuel rails, and AC compressor .

 

[stutaeng]

...so close to removing the block, putting in new cam, rod/main bearings and new rear main seal...[monkey covering eyes emoji]

 

[Marky Dissod]

Just asking, why not convert to a pair of electrical fans? You're getting the pcm tuned anyway.

 

[ORVietVet]

Just asking, why not convert to a pair of electrical fans? You're getting the pcm tuned anyway.

I have a pair of electric fans, that I just took off of a 2018 Suburban, simply because I was putting a radiator in it and the owner wanted all new. The Suburban is a 2018 with a 5.3 and 97k miles on it. Comes complete with the shroud. All is intact and work perfectly. Only thing needed is 6 of the 5mm-0.8 thread mounting screws. I had to use the old screws to mount the new fans to the new shroud.

I would sell to a member here for $80 plus the shipping. All of it is in perfect shape. No broken pieces on the fan shroud or fans, motors and blades. There is even one marked left and the other fan right.

 

[Mikloangelo]

Just asking, why not convert to a pair of electrical fans? You're getting the pcm tuned anyway.

Honestly haven't thought about. I did read about people doing that. Just not sure how effective they are for a 6.0L doing some occasional towing. This is supposed to take place of the fan?