My first GMT800, 01 2500HD LQ4

[ORVietVet]

Not that I remember?

 

[CPB]

is the passenger side exhaust manifold supposed to be split in 2 pieces in the center?

The OEM ones are two separated flanges.

 

[AuroraGirl]

The OEM ones are two separated flanges.

View attachment 5893

thank god, then its not broken like i thought it may be

Does dorman make a repair clamp that pushes on the center 2 ports

They should

 

[ORVietVet]

thank god, then its not broken like i thought it may be

Does dorman make a repair clamp that pushes on the center 2 ports

They should

I have yet to see a clamp for the center sections.

 

[CPB]

thank god, then its not broken like i thought it may be

Does dorman make a repair clamp that pushes on the center 2 ports

They should

917-108

 

[ORVietVet]

Asked and answered.

 

[CPB]

It was time for a new pump setup, starting seeing contamination of the plugs, the level sender would become intermittent.

Guess after 25 years it did well.

 

[CPB]

Truck stranded me, sorta. The coolant connector at the heater core are plastic and one snapped off. Did a bypass, since I didn't have a way to directly connect them to the core.

Bought the Dorman metal connectors and 3d printed the disconnect tool.
Tool: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7110083
Connector: 800-409HP

 

[stutaeng]

Nice!

On my 99, I just removed those quick connects and plug in the hose directly on the alumimum tubing with hose clamps.

Been running like that since mine broke right after I bought it in like 2007 or so.

 

[CPB]

Nice!

On my 99, I just removed those quick connects and plug in the hose directly on the alumimum tubing with hose clamps.

Been running like that since mine broke right after I bought it in like 2007 or so.

Couldn't get em off with the tools I had roadside, so did the bypass. The main body was still fixed onto the heater core.

I was tempted to direct connect, since these quick disconnects are purely for assembly line speed back when it was manufactured by teamsters. But I kinda like just replacing the plastic that degrades with metal.

 

[stutaeng]

Couldn't get em off with the tools I had roadside, so did the bypass. The main body was still fixed onto the heater core.

I was tempted to direct connect, since these quick disconnects are purely for assembly line speed back when it was manufactured by teamsters. But I kinda like just replacing the plastic that degrades with metal.

I usually i just break them off in pieces with some pliers (they already leaked or snapped, so no sense in getting them out intact.)

They'll be so brittle that a few minutes with the pliers and you have them removed.

Unfortunately, on our SUVs there's no way to get those quick connects deleted because of the rear heater. I did upgrade one of the two SUVs to the Dorman metal upgrades. They are some tee quick disconnects.

 

[ORVietVet]

I usually i just break them off in pieces with some pliers (they already leaked or snapped, so no sense in getting them out intact.)

They'll be so brittle that a few minutes with the pliers and you have them removed.

Unfortunately, on our SUVs there's no way to get those quick connects deleted because of the rear heater. I did upgrade one of the two SUVs to the Dorman metal upgrades. They are some tee quick disconnects.

Can't you just get straight connects and not run heat to the rear?

 

[CPB]

I usually i just break them off in pieces with some pliers (they already leaked or snapped, so no sense in getting them out intact.)

They'll be so brittle that a few minutes with the pliers and you have them removed.

Unfortunately, on our SUVs there's no way to get those quick connects deleted because of the rear heater. I did upgrade one of the two SUVs to the Dorman metal upgrades. They are some tee quick disconnects.

The ends were weak, obviously since they snapped off. The bodies were not, they were going to take the aluminum on the heater core with them hence the removal tool.

 

[stutaeng]

Can't you just get straight connects and not run heat to the rear?

Yeah, but then my kids ridding in the back in the winter months would be freezing. :-(

 

[Tonimus]

I usually i just break them off in pieces with some pliers (they already leaked or snapped, so no sense in getting them out intact.)

They'll be so brittle that a few minutes with the pliers and you have them removed.

Unfortunately, on our SUVs there's no way to get those quick connects deleted because of the rear heater. I did upgrade one of the two SUVs to the Dorman metal upgrades. They are some tee quick disconnects.

I've been thinking about doing the Dorman ones in my Tahoe for the same reason. How'd you like them?

 

[stutaeng]

I've been thinking about doing the Dorman ones in my Tahoe for the same reason. How'd you like them?

I installed them on my 04, which is a project and doesn't get driven. But I would recommend them. RA sent me an extra part on my order by accident, so I've been meaning to order the second one and install them on my 06 daily driver. They are metal and have some o-ring for sealing. Much better design than the OEM. On the 06 I had one of the quick connects snap about 5 years ago just like @CPB . Limped home with a 5 gallon pail of water from work and would stop every mile for my then-8 mile commute. Fun times.

The Dorman metal upgrades were not available back then, so I installed the GM Genuine. But we all know the plastic ones eventually will degrade.