New to Me GMT800? (Edit: Our New Yukon)

AuroraGirl

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Rear brakes done! This truck will be new soon. Might even get to the rust issue and fix that.View attachment 4285View attachment 4286View attachment 4287
I dont see any lube on the brake pads or the clips , so not complete.
I also dont see any cleaned up hub from the rust shown before, or any anti seize evidence under and above the hat (only need a tiny bit to keep the wheel mounting surface from getting rust jacked, and the amount under the hub to keep that from rust jacking at all)
 

zachammer85

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Here's the heater core tees Dorman makes. I couldn't remove my old ones, so I just broke them off with plyers. They definitely get brittle with age.

I decided to remove the quick connect integrated to the hose that comes from the large tee that hooks up to the reservoir. O'Reilly's only had red hose, so that's what I had to use. Whatever.

On my Silverado I have the hoses hooked up directly to the aluminum tubing, but the SUVs have rear heat, so you can't do that. Hopefully these metal ones last a long time...
Currently attempting this on my 01 suburban. The quick connects seem impossible to remove not to mention it's difficult to get a tool in there too release them. Any recommendations? I have both the dorman metal tee fittings you have there as well. Tia
 

stutaeng

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Currently attempting this on my 01 suburban. The quick connects seem impossible to remove not to mention it's difficult to get a tool in there too release them. Any recommendations? I have both the dorman metal tee fittings you have there as well. Tia
Try some long needle nose pliers. I don't remember specifically what pliers I used, but I have a long pliers of something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Basic...-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Start chipping away at the little nipples, then go after the main connectors. The plastic should be brittle. Once you start, it will be a lot faster and the whole connector will fall apart.

On the second photo I posted, this is the Lisle quick connect removal tool. I honestly can't recall that I used it, more like I think I was going to use it, but didn't need to? Can't remember now, LOL. But here's the link for that: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-39190-...19539b796db21e5f126ad1e&qid=1765309487&sr=8-6
 

zachammer85

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Try some long needle nose pliers. I don't remember specifically what pliers I used, but I have a long pliers of something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Basic...-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Start chipping away at the little nipples, then go after the main connectors. The plastic should be brittle. Once you start, it will be a lot faster and the whole connector will fall apart.

On the second photo I posted, this is the Lisle quick connect removal tool. I honestly can't recall that I used it, more like I think I was going to use it, but didn't need to? Can't remember now, LOL. But here's the link for that: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-39190-...19539b796db21e5f126ad1e&qid=1765309487&sr=8-6
So it sounds like the best option is to just destroy the old t fitting and keep the heater core and aux pipes in tact and replace with the new t fittings?
 

ORVietVet

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Absolutely correct. Either replace with GM/ACD or those metal ones out there. If you try to salvage them, the heater core tubes can get flumuxed.
 

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