Stutaeng's 2006 Suburban 2500

stutaeng

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Ceramic spray on insulation. I only did one coat of this stuff. Should be better than before. I'm kinda tired of messing with these panels by now. LOL. FWIW: I sprayed both products at 60 psi and the nozzle 2 turn out. It kinda sprays like drywall texture for your walls and ceilings. I did have to put on hearing protection because it's LOUD when spraying.

I'm also going to be running the wiring for the rear door lights and the footwell lights. I bought the parts a few months ago and they have just been sitting. Now is the time before I reinstall the doors panels.

Edit: I just checked and my truck doesn't have the brackets or cutouts for the footwell lights... ummm. I either have to raid the local wrecking yards (won't really have time until next weekend) or just try to fab something from miscellaneous materials I have laying around.
 

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stutaeng

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I tried to run the rear door wire through the snake going into the pillar, but couldn't see how to do it. It's not a pass-through hole but rather there's a connector at the pillar sheet metal. So that will have to wait because I was wasting too much time.

So I just finished reinstalling the door panels and went for a quick drive, and it's a significant improvement. Much quieter inside. Even drove briefly on the freeway at 70 MPH.

I'm going to be doing this treatment to my 99 Silverado soon... :)
 

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stutaeng

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So I was thinking about the rear door wiring...I wonder if I can just ADD another pin to that connector(?) I seem to remember there was empty slots...then it will be like factory. Thoughts?

I need to take the connector apart to see what kind of pins I need. Or maybe just steal one from the wrecking yard to steal the pins?
 
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bigdogYJ

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Yes. These.

I got the grills back installed BTW. I think they look good.
I’ve seen that issue with the material being pulled from the bottom edge of the pull handles on several gmt800’s ironically none of mine have experienced that. Not sure what causes it. But those pull handles are removable from the rest of the panel. I swapped mine around when I was messing around with interior pieces years back and made my own 2 tone interior. I think it’s just a few 7mm screws. Maybe if you pull that off then Rewrap the material and glue it back on. ‍
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stutaeng

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I replaced the front hub/bearings last night because I had an annoying shake when braking at highways speeds. I went with Timkens from RA. They were supposed to be delivered on Monday, but actually got them Saturday.https://www.gmt800.com/threads/brake-rotor-run-out-and-hub-run-out.9151/

I drove it to work this morning and I think that's fixed :)
 

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stutaeng

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Suburban's LQ4 engine purrs like a kitten on the TexPress tollway at 80 MPH @ 2650 rpm. Drives smooth and minimal low road noise. These trucks are amazing even though they are getting that old!

Kinda crazy how you can be driving down under that tunnel tollway and traffic is jammed packed up on the main highway.
 

Cadillacmak

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Suburban's LQ4 engine purrs like a kitten on the TexPress tollway at 80 MPH @ 2650 rpm. Drives smooth and minimal low road noise. These trucks are amazing even though they are getting that old!

Kinda crazy how you can be driving down under that tunnel tollway and traffic is jammed packed up on the main highway.
There is a $500 2000 suburban here for sale that they said has about 600,000 miles, dead engine, third transmission, cluster died at 450,000.
 

stutaeng

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I like Dallas traffic in the middle of the night, drove the 20 to the 30 not too long ago; lived in Plano as a kid, so I am used to it mostly.
Oh cool! I didn't know you lived here as a kid!
There is a $500 2000 suburban here for sale that they said has about 600,000 miles, dead engine, third transmission, cluster died at 450,000.
oh WOW! 1759859700876.png
 

stutaeng

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Damit. I had a front left speed sensor code go off yesterday driving home. I took a peek at the wheelwell after I got home, but all I could see was the connector and it was connected? Maybe the Timken wheel hub/bearings wheel speed sensors are junk. I've actually never had a wheel speed sensor go bad on these GMT800s, until I replaced the hubs, LOL.

I ordered a GM Genuine speed sensor from RA. 1760031823416.png

I still have a slight vibration when braking at highway speeds, just not as bad as before. I'm thinking of replacing all rotors and pads. Truck now has 274k and I bought it with 225k. I was looking at the RA "high performance" kits from RA. They have Drynamic Friction, R1 Concepts, and Powerstop. Kits range from about $400 to $600 for 4 rotors and pads. I've always been an OEM guy, but just curious on these kits? I can't really complain on stopping power on this truck TBH. Anyone have any experience with them? Local AAP replacement is right at $400. It's just money, right?
 

Marky Dissod

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PowerStop has never disappointed me; mid-90s LT1 Caprices, '12 Chevy Caprice PPV by Holden (particularly impressive from 110MpH-0 panic stop),
'12 GMC Yukon XL, and now my '02 Tahoe Z71's 2010 Suburban front brake kit. Would not be surprised if GM OE uses PowerStop stuff from time to time.
 

stutaeng

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Welp, I'm gonna chalk this up to installer mistake. I left the cable over the dust shield and it severed it. Doh!

Then the screw for the actual sensor was pentagon-shaped! WTF. Never seen that.

...so I hammered a T30 in there and I took it out. Replaced it and I think I'm good.
 

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