Stutaeng's 2006 Suburban 2500

[stutaeng]

You can machine them and likely be fine. If you do, make sure before a shop resurfaces them that they or you completely clean the inside/backside of the hub hat. When you put the freshly machined or new rotors on, make sure to clean the end of the axle. Rust build up. You do what you want but I would use new pads and hardware and clean/adjust if needed, the park brake shoes.

Thank you sir! I was kinda of in a hurry because I had to go pick up my daughter from school activities today, so I put the wheels back on...when I walked inside my home, turns out my wife already had gone to pick her up. Doh.

I wanted to measure the rotor thickness, but didn't get a chance to. They "felt" a bit down from the edge from a visual/feel tester, which I guess doesn't mean much? Hmm...

 

[ORVietVet]

Thank you sir! I was kinda of in a hurry because I had to go pick up my daughter from school activities today, so I put the wheels back on...when I walked inside my home, turns out my wife already had gone to pick her up. Doh.

I wanted to measure the rotor thickness, but didn't get a chance to. They "felt" a bit down from the edge from a visual/feel tester, which I guess doesn't mean much? Hmm...

Because the front brakes do 60% to 70% of the braking, the rear brakes do not take as much abuse. That is why I said you can resurface and reuse the rear rotors but.....I would do new rotors and still clean the axles where the rotor hubs contact. The cost to get them resurfaced and the down time waiting for the resurface and the fuel to and from the shop that does the resurface.....well that is likely what new rotors cost.

 

[stutaeng]

Because the front brakes do 60% to 70% of the braking, the rear brakes do not take as much abuse. That is why I said you can resurface and reuse the rear rotors but.....I would do new rotors and still clean the axles where the rotor hubs contact. The cost to get them resurfaced and the down time waiting for the resurface and the fuel to and from the shop that does the resurface.....well that is likely what new rotors cost.

Thank you. That's what I was thinking too.

So my wife was asking when the minivan was gonna get fixed yesterday.

I'm thinking of daily driving it now to get it to act up...sounds like a suicide mission. LOL

 

[stutaeng]

I ordered some Powerstop rear rotors with pads from RA. Best price, and our discount makes it even a better deal

 

[ORVietVet]

I ordered some Powerstop rear rotors with pads from RA. Best price, and our discount makes it even a better deal

View attachment 4471

Please make sure to clean the pad mount areas and lube it all for smooth pad slide.

 

[stutaeng]

Well, that Chrysler is kicking my butt. Yesterday during my lunch break I went to the grocery store, and the thing wouldn't crank. I had my jerry-rigged relay with a fuse tap on a quick-connect: I plugged it in, and nothing.

I also had the relay tester, and jumping the terminals, all I could hear was clicking down near the starter. No cranking. Tried maybe 20-30 times.

So I got Uber to my office, and another Uber to my girl's volleyball game after work where my wife had driven was with kids.

Today I drove my Suburban to work, and stopped by to check on the minivan: she fired like a champ. WTF?! So I drove it home...when I got home, I duplicated the starter relay (just as I did yesterday), and cranks and fires correctly now...then i got another Uber to pick up my Suburban, but was cheaper that getting the minivan towed back home, which was really my plan.

So I think that rules out the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN), and the Tipm...leaving the new starter I just installed somehow intermittently failing to start...

 

[ORVietVet]

Well, that Chrysler is kicking my butt. Yesterday during my lunch break I went to the grocery store, and the thing wouldn't crank. I had my jerry-rigged relay with a fuse tap on a quick-connect: I plugged it in, and nothing.

I also the relay tester, and jumping the terminals, all I could hear was clicking down near the starter. No cranking. Tried maybe 20-30 times.

So I got Uber to my office, and another Uber to my girl's volleyball game after work where my wife had driven was with kids.

Today I drove my Suburban to work, and stopped by to check on the minivan: she fired like a champ. WTF?! So I drove it home...when I got home, I duplicated the starter relay (just as I did yesterday), and cranks and fires correctly now...then i got another Uber to pick up my Suburban, but was chapear that getting the minivan towed back home, which was really my plan.

So I think that rules out the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN), and the Tipm...leaving the new starter i just installed somehow intermittently failing to start...

Are you saying the no start problem is EXACTLY like the no start problem before the new starter........OR is it different?

 

[stutaeng]

Are you saying the no start problem is EXACTLY like the no start problem before the new starter........OR is it different?

Seems like the same.

I really should check power at the solenoid, but no easy way. Unless I clip an alligator wire and run it to the top of the engine. The catalytic converter, engine mount and a cross member are in thd way. I checked All data and they actually show removing the catalytic converter to remove the starter, which I managed to do without.

 

[ORVietVet]

No way a new starter acts EXACTLY like the old starter, unless the feed voltage problem is STILL there. Attach the clip and run the voltage tests.

 

[stutaeng]

No way a new starter acts EXACTLY like the old starter. Attach the clip and run the voltage tests.

OK, will do. I may actually have to remove the cat, because the electrical connections are very tight behind the starter.

I drove on some ramps when I got home, which helps because ground clearance on these kinda sucks.

 

[ORVietVet]

OK, will do. I may actually have to remove the cat, because the electrical connectos are very tight behind the starter.

I drove on some ramps when I got home, which helps because ground clearance on these kinda sucks.

You are gonna want to use a big enough gauge wire for this testing. not an 18 gauge but closer to a 10 gauge. The smaller the wire the more resistance to the current flow.

You want to see at least 12 volts to the starter and any more than that is best. Then you also want to know the voltage drop in the battery feed to the starter. Get a voltage at the battery/cable connection. Then check to see what the voltage is at the cable end at the starter. This is while you are not trying to start. Then see what voltage reading you have at the battery again, while attempting to crank and then see what voltage is reaching the solenoid when attempting to crank engine. What amount of corrosion is there at the cable at the battery and inside the insulation?

 

[Tonimus]

Wouldn't hurt to inspect the TIPM. May have the green crusties.

 

[stutaeng]

Got the rear rotors/pads in the mail for the Suburban today.

Both COO said made in 'Gina...kinda disappointed, but oh well...SMH. Hopefully they are good enough. Fingers crossed.

 

[stutaeng]

We had a bit of rain just enough screw up my morning. Will mess with the minivan tomorrow hopefully if it doesn't rain again.

I did replace the rear rotors and pads on the suburban. I had bought the little drill attachment to clean around the wheel studs but it didn't work over the stud because it bottoms out before the abrasive surface hits. It's the Performancetool brand. So I had to do some wire brush and sandpaper.

Edit: I see i need to replace the rear jounces...they are missing.

 

[stutaeng]

Went to pick up the minivan starter at AAP. Did the brake break-in procedure on the suburban. She stops good now, although I now have PS dripping at my hydroboost valve. Doh!

I just a voltage drop on the minivan and got these results. Power voltage drops looks a bit high, but IDK about the other stuff.

 

[stutaeng]

I had the little plastic connection on the solenoid break last time. I thought the actual metal terminal was still making good connection, but wasn't sure...so I soldered in, since I didn't have any spade crimp-on connectors that wide. I also soldered a new wire and ran it to top, for testing later since this thing is buried in there.

And I ran another power cable to the positive to help with that voltage drop that seemed a tad high.

Edit: something is wrong...I can't upload photos...

 

[stutaeng]

Not sure why I can't upload photos from my phone now? But that circled part is the solenoid plastic tab that broke. I found a thread on the minivan forums some guy had the same issue with it breaking. Another member said he too was having intermittent issues also where it wouldn't crank, and moving the harness around fixed it, until it happened again and it was that connector not making good contact. Hopefully that was my issue too. I'll continue driving it this week for another few days before handing it back my wife. Seems like it cranks faster now also.

Back to my Suburban: I ordered a 2011 Duramax hydroboost from RA. My buddy Shakenfake from the other forums told me it's pretty much a direct swap on our GMT800s, and the GM Genuine is actually cheaper that the direct hydroboost replacement! He recently did it to his 06 Sierra Duramax.

 

[stutaeng]

The minivan was handed back to my wife last week. It's fixed from the starter issue! I got the rest of the parts to do the engine oil cooler and will do a transmission fluid replacement soon at the next scheduled oil change.

Suburban braking shake is also gone! Braking is so smooth. I'm happy

I received the rear jounce stops this week, so I will replace those. IDK what happened to my HB valve? UPS says it was received at some nearby facility, but that was Nov. 6, and no other updates...WTH+SMH

 

[ORVietVet]

The minivan was handed back to my wife last week. It's fixed from the starter issue! I got the rest of the parts to do the engine oil cooler and will do a transmission fluid replacement soon at the next scheduled oil change.

Suburban braking shake is also gone! Braking is so smooth. I'm happy

I received the rear jounce stops this week, so I will replace those. IDK what happened to my HB valve? UPS says it was received at some nearby facility, but that was Nov. 6, and no other updates...WTH+SMH

View attachment 4615

And the fix for the minivan waaaaaaasssssss........?

 

[stutaeng]

And the fix for the minivan waaaaaaasssssss........?

IDK. SMH. I changed 2 unknowns, so I couldn't rule out one or the other...

Either the loose solenoid connector, or a bad starter. I haven't returned the starter for the AAP core, which is $40. I'm debating that...It "could" good and I can keep it as a spare if it was the connector? What would you recommend?

Maybe have them test it?