2000 Single Cab Short Bed “DateNight”
- Thread starter DateNight
- Start date
New, maybe 50miles on it. but I’m going to pull it off again and inspect it.
Oh yeah, I put a new crank shaft position sensor in it. Still didn’t fix it.
When I did the tune up I put copper plugs in it. The factory calls for platinum. So I might put the old ones back in to see if anything changes.
When I bought the truck I got it with the intention of swapping the v6. The guy I got it from was bragging on the engine being “rebuilt” etc. I knew then he was full of chit. I can 100% tell you for a fact this is a 275k mile v6 that’s never been opened up. The coil was still a factory GM coil, i had to grind the rivets down to replace it. The ground wires have never been off the block and looms never been disturbed.
Like a lawyer friend of mine told me once, "If it ain't documented, it didn't happen"! Rebuilt my ass! Show me the paperwork and prove to me that it was. Paperwork mileage and time must make sense. Plus, the clues you pointed out.
stutaeng
Well-Known Member
Does the distributor look original? What about wear on the gear?
I was kinda in a similar situation on my 99 with my 4.3, except mine didn't fire when it was damp or cold. I remember a new distributor was like $175 IIRC. I didn't want to spend the money on a new distributor because the engine had low oil pressure as well.
So I used that money towards my $450 5.3 part-out special from a 04 Yukon XL.
This isn't a daily driver, right? What do you still need to get your 5.3 back together?
I was kinda in a similar situation on my 99 with my 4.3, except mine didn't fire when it was damp or cold. I remember a new distributor was like $175 IIRC. I didn't want to spend the money on a new distributor because the engine had low oil pressure as well.
So I used that money towards my $450 5.3 part-out special from a 04 Yukon XL.
This isn't a daily driver, right? What do you still need to get your 5.3 back together?
Distributor i bet has never been changed. The more money i put into this more means less im putting towards the LS swap.
It’s strictly a toy, so I’m in no rush I just don’t like having a non running truck.
I can put my 5.3 together right now, I have all the parts. Just need motor mounts and headers.
The little guy on my shoulder says do 3.898 flat tops. I Unusually listen to him
It’s strictly a toy, so I’m in no rush I just don’t like having a non running truck.
I can put my 5.3 together right now, I have all the parts. Just need motor mounts and headers.
The little guy on my shoulder says do 3.898 flat tops. I Unusually listen to him
someotherguy
Well-Known Member
At 275K if that's the original distributor, it's almost guaranteed to be worn out. When you pull the cap off next time, try turning the rotor either direction and simultaneously give it a gentle shove side to side as the rotor pops up.
Forever ago, my '96 C3500 wrecker with the Vortec 7.4 had.. can't remember the miles? But a boneyard engine with unknown miles on it. It ran strong but had a hiccup at highway cruise. Upper bushing for the distributor shaft was toast. Replaced it and no more issues. *edit for clarity - replaced the distributor.
Had another '96 7.4 that I swapped into my '94 3500HD when I built it into a wrecker, had 236K or so when I looked into ignition issues on it, and the upper bushing was so bad that the new rotor I'd installed had the little plastic ridges in it chipped away by smacking the terminals inside the cap.
Richard
Forever ago, my '96 C3500 wrecker with the Vortec 7.4 had.. can't remember the miles? But a boneyard engine with unknown miles on it. It ran strong but had a hiccup at highway cruise. Upper bushing for the distributor shaft was toast. Replaced it and no more issues. *edit for clarity - replaced the distributor.
Had another '96 7.4 that I swapped into my '94 3500HD when I built it into a wrecker, had 236K or so when I looked into ignition issues on it, and the upper bushing was so bad that the new rotor I'd installed had the little plastic ridges in it chipped away by smacking the terminals inside the cap.
Richard
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I might just go ahead and order one from amazon. Less than $50 for a distributor, can’t beat it. Plus I can return it hahah
INW-Iron-Steel
Well-Known Member
How many miles on the copper plugs? FWIW, Copper plugs will actually give you a *better* spark in the beginning, but wear down faster (much faster). Platinum plugs are more of a longevity/durabilty thing so people can go 100K miles on spark plugs. Copper plugs generally need changed around 20-30K. I've run copper plugs on many gmt800 platforms with no issues, as long as the gap is within spec. Not sure about the v6, but I know GM tightened up the gap for the LS trucks after poor running/drivability complaints.
Shot in the dark, but do you have a multimeter? If so, I'd recommend OHM'ing out all the spark plugs wires. I once had a brand new set of "high-performance" low resistance wires on my 04 that were crap out of the box. I was chasing a random misfire before I finally decide I needed to check the brand new wires. 7/8 were low ohm (60ish), but one had like quadruple the resistance (over 200 ohms). New set of quality OE replacement wires fixed the misfire. I OHM all plug wires when they come out of the box now...
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Completely agree with what @INW-Iron-Steel said.
Yes that is very good practice. So GM says 60 on the gap(platinum plugs) the coppers I got were also gapped at 60. I always run a 35 gap on my nitrous small block. 60 seems large to me, I might pull them and gap them at 35 just for chits and giggles
Some stereo actions today, I felt good about the truck running right again so I rounded up some left over stereo stuff from previous projects and through together a little system. I have to run to town for wire loom. More pics to come
Good luck with that. At my age, I have one country western station I listen to and a couple conservative stations I listen to and the OE speakers work just fine. Add on stereo systems, to me, are just something else I have to get out of the way when I work on Trucks/SUV's/Vehicles.
INW-Iron-Steel
Well-Known Member
For me, stereo work always escalates to most if not all of the interior being removed...
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I agree, so much easier running wire and such. Whenever I find nice OEM carpet I will lay down some sound mat.
someotherguy
Well-Known Member
Curious, did you give it a turn either direction and at various points in that motion, give it a shove side to side? That's what it took for me to notice the wear on the 7.4 I put in the HD.
Seems odd a rotor could look that bad with so few miles. There's a root cause that should be a flashing red sign...once you find it.
Richard
someotherguy
Well-Known Member
I used to be that way but I got tired of messing with it. In my '93 I swapped the non-working stock AM/FM/cassette with the upgraded stock AM/FM/cassette with the 5 band EQ; I'll be modding to add a bluetooth receiver inside the unit. A member on gmt400 is sending me another one of those EQ setups so I can replace the bad one in my '94.
It's a little hard to hear over the engine/exhaust in the '93 and the AM reception is a little static-y, almost certainly need to replace the electrolytic caps in the CDM before they go bad and start leaking all over the board (hopefully they haven't yet.) Dash speakers are working originals but the B pillars are dead. Should be easier to hear once I replace those since they're right by your head in the regular cab.
Richard
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