So, it was "handed back" by you and not a shop that looked at it?
Stutaeng's 2006 Suburban 2500
- Thread starter stutaeng
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stutaeng
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I never took it to a shop...The first starter I replaced based on symptoms of non-crank. If it was a GMT800, I would have checked voltage at the purple wire, but since that really wasn't easily done, I ordered a starter replacement from RA.
stutaeng
Well-Known Member
I bought the rear jounce stops from "the jungle" of Amazon. I'd bought these same ones and installed them on my Silverado w/o issues last year.
Well, on the Suburban the studs were too short. The inside frame rail has a spacer or something. I went and bought longer bolts and was going to tack weld to the metal part, but decided to just cut a slot on the bolt head to prevent it from spinning.
I had to use a weedeater spark plug tool with a flathead so i could clear the axle tube. Job took way longer than anticipated.
Well, on the Suburban the studs were too short. The inside frame rail has a spacer or something. I went and bought longer bolts and was going to tack weld to the metal part, but decided to just cut a slot on the bolt head to prevent it from spinning.
I had to use a weedeater spark plug tool with a flathead so i could clear the axle tube. Job took way longer than anticipated.
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stutaeng
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I bought another front speed sensor (from AAP) because the GM Genuine didn't fix my issue. Recall that I reinstalled the little shim that the Timken had.
Yesterday I tested the GM Genuine with a DVOM, and no AC signal was being produced while spinning the wheel hub. I tested the AAP outside, and getting it close to the wheel studs, did produced some voltage.
So reinstalled the GM Genuine and removed the spacer and confirmed signal was being generated now. The faster I turned the wheel hub, the higher the voltage (still very small voltages albeit.)
But still same code. Doh!
I'll try my luck with the AAP sensor now I guess. If that doesn't fix the issue, I'll have order another replacement hub.
Yesterday I tested the GM Genuine with a DVOM, and no AC signal was being produced while spinning the wheel hub. I tested the AAP outside, and getting it close to the wheel studs, did produced some voltage.
So reinstalled the GM Genuine and removed the spacer and confirmed signal was being generated now. The faster I turned the wheel hub, the higher the voltage (still very small voltages albeit.)
But still same code. Doh!
I'll try my luck with the AAP sensor now I guess. If that doesn't fix the issue, I'll have order another replacement hub.
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stutaeng
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Umm. The ABS light went out today driving home. Earlier I also saw the service tpms briefly but that went out too.
Maybe it just needed longer driving?
Maybe it just needed longer driving?
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stutaeng
Well-Known Member
Well, the ABS light is kicking my butt... light came back on. I went ahead and replaced the AAP Carquest replaced and nothing.
So I gave up and ordered a new Timken bearing from RA.
On another note, I finally filed a claim with RA and they shipped another Hydroboost UPS had lost in transit. I haven't seen any more leaks from my Hydroboost, but will replace it anyways.
stutaeng
Well-Known Member
I'm back on the minivan: today I decided to do an ATF fluid replacement. It's got around 97k and the owner's manual said something like 90k severe service, 110k normal service. The other day my wife said the money light came ON and I checked it and it's a transmission TCC code. Had already planned on the ATF fluid service.
I'm done for the night though...1. I stripped one of the pan bolts heads. 8mm pan bolts, seriously? almost as good as if they'd used drywall screws. 2. The oil filter broke at the neck. I had to chisel it out in pieces. 3. The magnet was loaded with grit. 4. I just stripped a pan bolt threads reinstalling the pan! I was using a 1/4 torque wrench, and some of the bolts had started clicking. I think some of threads had silicone, maybe that messed up the torqing?
I'm done for the night though...1. I stripped one of the pan bolts heads. 8mm pan bolts, seriously? almost as good as if they'd used drywall screws. 2. The oil filter broke at the neck. I had to chisel it out in pieces. 3. The magnet was loaded with grit. 4. I just stripped a pan bolt threads reinstalling the pan! I was using a 1/4 torque wrench, and some of the bolts had started clicking. I think some of threads had silicone, maybe that messed up the torqing?
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stutaeng
Well-Known Member
Ok, this is another day 
and I could use some brainstorming and wisdom.
Should I try my luck refill the transmission? Or should I try fixing that stripped thread? I have a basic SAE/Metric tap and die set, and a mostly complete drill bit that goes to 64ths.
I'll probably head to the hardware store to see what bolts they have there. I believe this little mom and pop hardware store even has Helicoils, although I've never used those before...
and I could use some brainstorming and wisdom.Should I try my luck refill the transmission? Or should I try fixing that stripped thread? I have a basic SAE/Metric tap and die set, and a mostly complete drill bit that goes to 64ths.
I'll probably head to the hardware store to see what bolts they have there. I believe this little mom and pop hardware store even has Helicoils, although I've never used those before...
@stutaeng, I personally would do the complete transmission service and filter change. No flush! Personally, when I do work here at home, I run a tap in holes on most of the holes I took a bolt out of, before reassembly, especially if I am gonna torque them.
I would at least try to tap the hole and see what happens. Or see if you can find a self tapping bolt that fits.
I would at least try to tap the hole and see what happens. Or see if you can find a self tapping bolt that fits.
@stutaeng, I personally would do the complete transmission service and filter change. No flush! Personally, when I do work here at home, I run a tap in holes on most of the holes I took a bolt out of, before reassembly, especially if I am gonna torque them.
I would at least try to tap the hole and see what happens. Or see if you can find a self tapping bolt that fits.
I would at least try to tap the hole and see what happens. Or see if you can find a self tapping bolt that fits.
Other than when I tried to post my response and kept getting the pop up "OOPS something is F****U***** C K E D UP and will not post right now, I have no idea why my response posted twice.
99Sierra2500
Well-Known Member
Helicoils are good, I have used them.
stutaeng
Well-Known Member
Something was wrong with the site...I was getting error messages too. And yesterday I couldn't upload photos again. I thought it was an issue with my phone? IDK
99Sierra2500
Well-Known Member
I have had issues also.
stutaeng
Well-Known Member
I went and bought a M8 tap and screws, but decided not to try drilling it out because I'm not sure if that's a through hole or blind hole at that location. And I didn't want to remove the pan again.
So I installed a 1/4-20 screw in there temporarily. Refilled and went for a drive and seems like it's shifting well and no leaks. The tcc code had showed pending and it came back on, but I didn't really think the fluid replacement would do anything for that.
So I installed a 1/4-20 screw in there temporarily. Refilled and went for a drive and seems like it's shifting well and no leaks. The tcc code had showed pending and it came back on, but I didn't really think the fluid replacement would do anything for that.
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stutaeng
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There's another pan on the front of the transmission that houses the solenoid packs. I can try checking the resistance through the main connector, or maybe removing the TCC solenoid to clean it.
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stutaeng
Well-Known Member
I replaced the hub on my Suburban and ABS light went out leaving my driveway.
I'm guessing those Timken bearings are machined slightly different on the tone ring or something?
I'm guessing those Timken bearings are machined slightly different on the tone ring or something?
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stutaeng
Well-Known Member
Since I bought this truck, the headlights have always been ON. I have to manually turn them off when I fire it up. The little sensor on the dash was MIA and I suspected it had fallen down the dash. My aftermarket stereo screen is always dim because the truck thinks it's dark, which makes it hard to see in the summer sun.
Removing the dash seemed like a huge PIA, but I finally decided to do it...well, to my surprise, it's incredibly EASY! And my sensor is in fact, there and it WORKS! So I won't even need the replacement sensor I'd bought awhile back. No parts required fix!
I do have a small crack on the dash, so while it's out, I'm gonna try fixing that...might as well paint it to get rid of minor scratches and spray some Lizardskin...'cause my GMT800s "are" the 1977 Camero that I must have had in my previous life, but can't afford in this life! Lol
Removing the dash seemed like a huge PIA, but I finally decided to do it...well, to my surprise, it's incredibly EASY! And my sensor is in fact, there and it WORKS! So I won't even need the replacement sensor I'd bought awhile back. No parts required fix!
I do have a small crack on the dash, so while it's out, I'm gonna try fixing that...might as well paint it to get rid of minor scratches and spray some Lizardskin...'cause my GMT800s "are" the 1977 Camero that I must have had in my previous life, but can't afford in this life! Lol
